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Old November 16th, 2017, 01:45 PM   #41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hyp Noob View Post
I received my kit last Friday (11/10). No time/energy to deal with it now.

I'd love for one of our Bay Area experts to run a "clutch clinic day" to do the install.

Anyone know what the purpose of the little washers in the kit? I think they are
Aluminum?

Do you guys recommend measuring Clutch Spring length when things are apart?
When clutch springs get HOT they SHRINK. Seen this on two Suzuki's. Spring length shrank by 1/2". new ones made night and day difference.

Thoughts?
Apparently.. the little aluminum spacers are 1mm spring preload spacers. I'm not sure how much difference they really make, but the factory provided them and this info that they should be included. I measured my clutch springs at 56.6mm, which is within spec.

After learning about the spring preload spacers, I did learn that the 2015 clutch spring holder/release part is different than the 2013/2014. Perhaps increasing preload without the need for additional spacers. Just a blind guess.

Quote:
Originally Posted by zippy49 View Post
I'm 3/4 of the way done with the installation, and wanted to point out a couple of things.

There is very little clearance for pulling the cam belt cover fastener behind the exhaust. I have a gunsmith ratchet driver that takes an allen bit about 1/2" long, that helped. I'm at a loss for why the belt cover needed to be removed, there is a third tab on the clutch cover that is under it so it looks intentional. Strange design.

When I got to the "the clutch pack should slide right out" step it refused to cooperate. Turned out that I still had the rear wheel on the stand from when I removed the big nut, still in gear, which bound the stack up. Raising the wheel to free it all did the trick.

I'm ready to install the cover, should be smooth sailing from here.

BTW when I checked the cam belt it seemed plenty tight. 10K miles, but I don't use much revs. And I think those washers are for sealing the oil strainer.

Finally, I noticed a logo on the tabs of the friction plate that I removed... same name as on the boxes the kit came in...truly OEM.
Agreed on the belt cover... really not sure there either. I had to cut an allen wrench shorter to get it to clear the header pipe.

What method did you end up assembling it? Were there any tolerance issues? I honestly would not be surprised if people's clutch baskets were different from one to the next.

And yes, it doesn't get any more OEM than this
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Old November 16th, 2017, 03:36 PM   #42
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From: San Jose Ca
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hyp Noob View Post
I received my kit last Friday (11/10). No time/energy to deal with it now.

I'd love for one of our Bay Area experts to run a "clutch clinic day" to do the install.

Anyone know what the purpose of the little washers in the kit? I think they are
Aluminum?

Do you guys recommend measuring Clutch Spring length when things are apart?
When clutch springs get HOT they SHRINK. Seen this on two Suzuki's. Spring length shrank by 1/2". new ones made night and day difference.

Thoughts?

I'm in Oakland and would be down for a bay area "clutch clinic". I've been tempted to rent a stall at Moto Guild on Treasure Island. However, I worry that the job would exceed my limited wrenching skills and I'd end up stranded on the island.


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Old November 16th, 2017, 04:11 PM   #43
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OllieHolic View Post
I'm in Oakland and would be down for a bay area "clutch clinic". I've been tempted to rent a stall at Moto Guild on Treasure Island. However, I worry that the job would exceed my limited wrenching skills and I'd end up stranded on the island.


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A Ducati shop could do the swap in a few hours, if you don't think you could do it yourself.
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Old November 16th, 2017, 10:07 PM   #44
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Just ordered the anti judder kit. Lot of bike thefts recently where I live so if you see it for sale... But, thanks for getting this together, much appreciated.
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Old November 17th, 2017, 07:43 AM   #45
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bayotte View Post
A Ducati shop could do the swap in a few hours, if you don't think you could do it yourself.
I was quoted $400 for the job at my dealer. It isn't really all that hard, at least so far. Doing final assembly next, might do a trial fitting to make sure the clutch operates properly, before applying the sealant.

PS I used a spoke wrench from my wheelbuilding on those tiny 3mm nuts. Worked like a charm.

Kuksul: Did you use those spring spacers on your clutch? I went ahead and put them in.

Last edited by zippy49; November 17th, 2017 at 08:07 AM. Reason: Important question + never mind
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Old November 17th, 2017, 09:47 AM   #46
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zippy49 View Post
I was quoted $400 for the job at my dealer. It isn't really all that hard, at least so far. Doing final assembly next, might do a trial fitting to make sure the clutch operates properly, before applying the sealant.

PS I used a spoke wrench from my wheelbuilding on those tiny 3mm nuts. Worked like a charm.

Kuksul: Did you use those spring spacers on your clutch? I went ahead and put them in.
Yes I did, on top of the springs, under the retainer piece.
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Old November 18th, 2017, 06:31 AM   #47
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Hmm, I put them in under the springs. Didn't think they would stay centered under the pusher plate.

I'm about to apply the sealant and button up the cover. Then we're off to the bike show in Long Beach. It should be ready to fill and test tomorrow. I'll post my results.
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Old November 18th, 2017, 09:55 AM   #48
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They will stay on top. I think on bottom they will hit against a ledge. Not the best thing I don't think
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Old November 18th, 2017, 11:47 AM   #49
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I Ride: 2013 Hypermotard 821
Ok need advice and consoling.

*Problem:
With the engine off the clutch does not disengage enough to allow the wheel to spin freely when in gear. (i.e. like the clutch lever has not been pulled). The situation did not improve when I put the bike in neutral and let it come up to temp. Neutral does work, but when I pull in the clutch lever and try to shift into first there is a violent clunk (like I've shifted without using the clutch) and the rear wheel immediately spins. This was all done on the stand, off the stand the bike jerks and stalls immediately.


Situation:
1) I verified that the tab on the side of the engine case is attached to the knob on the inside that grabs the clutch carriage.

2) I did not read about the washers for the springs in the guide so I ignored them. Additionally I did not measure the height of the springs from my clutch when I had everything disassembled.

3) When I added the judder spring/spacer/driving/driven plate from the kit, I removed exactly: 1 driving plate and 1 driven plate from the existing blutch assembly. Is that correct?

Thanks for any help or guidance guys. I'm really frustrated.
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Old November 18th, 2017, 12:05 PM   #50
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Ripyowrist - have you adjusted the clutch lever play since doing the clutch plate change? It sounds like the clutch is not fully disengaging, this may be due to improper clutch lever adjustment
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