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Old November 18th, 2017, 12:09 PM   #51
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bayotte,

I did. I adjusted the screw basically out to the max it would go (touchin ghte little metal retainer underneath the washer portion of the adjustment screw) to try and limit the play as much as possible on the lever end. I also noted that the tab on the side of the engine case was reaching the full extent of its travel upon full clutch lever pull.
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Old November 18th, 2017, 12:14 PM   #52
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ripyowrist View Post
Ok need advice and consoling.

*Problem:
With the engine off the clutch does not disengage enough to allow the wheel to spin freely when in gear. (i.e. like the clutch lever has not been pulled). The situation did not improve when I put the bike in neutral and let it come up to temp. Neutral does work, but when I pull in the clutch lever and try to shift into first there is a violent clunk (like I've shifted without using the clutch) and the rear wheel immediately spins. This was all done on the stand, off the stand the bike jerks and stalls immediately.


Situation:
1) I verified that the tab on the side of the engine case is attached to the knob on the inside that grabs the clutch carriage.

2) I did not read about the washers for the springs in the guide so I ignored them. Additionally I did not measure the height of the springs from my clutch when I had everything disassembled.

3) When I added the judder spring/spacer/driving/driven plate from the kit, I removed exactly: 1 driving plate and 1 driven plate from the existing blutch assembly. Is that correct?

Thanks for any help or guidance guys. I'm really frustrated.
Huh...

First off, I wouldn't worry about the springs or washers, they will only ever so slightly increase the clutch clamping force and would not cause this issue.

That is correct, you remove the outer friction plate and steel plate and replace them with the new parts. So for example, on the very outside you originally had the friction plate taking up about 3.5mm of thickness. You removed that, and replaced it with the narrow friction plate, judder spring, and seat. The next item in the stack is the steel plate, which you replace with the new (heat treated) version from the kit. The total stack height should only be slightly more than original due to the squish in the judder spring.

I apologize if I'm stating the obvious but there are a few things to check. Did you make sure the washer behind the clutch assembly didn't fall out? If it is missing, the nut could make the whole thing bind. Did you remove the M3 threaded rod? Is the clutch lever adjusted properly? You can look inside the oil fill cap and verify the clutch is disengaging (it moves approximately 1/8" when you pull the clutch lever).

The first thing I would do before starting the engine any more is put the bike in gear on the stand and try rotating the wheel by hand to do troubleshooting.
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Old November 18th, 2017, 12:16 PM   #53
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Do you think it's correctly adjusted now, according to the specs in the manual? If you've maxed out the adjustment on the thumb screw you may need to use the other adjuster.

If you take off the oil fill screw and look at the clutch plates, can you see them moving then you pull the clutch?
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Old November 18th, 2017, 01:06 PM   #54
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Thanks for the suggestions guys.

I installed the plates the way you have just described.

kuksul08, to answer your questions looking through the filler cap the outermost plate (or maybe the outside of the hub?) Moves 1/8th of an inch on clutch lever pull. We double checked to ale sure that the washer went back in behind the entire assembly when we put it all back together. I also removed the threaded rod before reassembling.
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Old November 18th, 2017, 01:07 PM   #55
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Also just verified the clutch lever setting as per the manual and checked the secondary adjuster a bit so the screw near the lever isn't at the full extent of its range of travel.

Should all the plates move when looking through the filler hole?

Last edited by ripyowrist; November 18th, 2017 at 01:10 PM.
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Old November 18th, 2017, 01:16 PM   #56
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No just the outer pressure plate thing. The plates themselves just kinda relax but there is nothing to push them away from eachother.
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Old November 18th, 2017, 01:17 PM   #57
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Cannot verify that it is full 1/8th of an inch of travel. It appears to be less than that. It is moving on clutch pull but I would venture to say that it is more than a 1/16th but less than an 1/8th in of travel.

Appears to be enough though.
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Old November 18th, 2017, 01:23 PM   #58
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1/8" was just an estimate.

So... when you have the bike on a stand in 6th and try rotating the wheel with the clutch in, can you physically rotate it?
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Old November 18th, 2017, 01:30 PM   #59
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Barely, so I can sort of roll the wheel to where it stops and hammer or pop it and see it move by small increments each time. It will slowly rotate around like it's overcoming the friction when I roll forward quicky into the place where it catches. This is on the stand in sixth.
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Old November 18th, 2017, 02:11 PM   #60
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My only other thought is when you assembled the clutch pack the last steel plate went on crooked because it didn't fit down on the splines properly. You kinda have to assemble it upside down to keep the plates on the splines.
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