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Old February 20th, 2014, 06:33 AM   #61
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Originally Posted by mentalist View Post
Zippy, i've replaced an indicator bulb on mine, lots of bulbs are offset these days, I managed to get some from ebay for a 1.00

BAU15s 12v 10w Indicator Orange bulb (off set pins | eBay
Must be some EU nonsense. There is no reason for the pins to be offset on a single filament bulb. I seriously doubt that any automobile uses these pathetic little 10W things. When I have a burnt out bulb I need a replacement NOW. Not next week. They are not available OTC in our local auto parts stores, and my Ducati shop is 40 miles away down one of the most crowded freeways in the state. This is a safety issue!

On the subject of mounting auxiliary lamps...using those convenient radiator cover wellnuts is dangerous. They are only 5mm, and a simple tipover could ruin the radiator. I'm going to figure out something better.
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Old February 20th, 2014, 08:38 AM   #62
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I used a 20mm bolt that equalled the depth of stock bolt after spacers and bracket thickness. I used washers that sank into radiator bolt washer indent plus loctite. They've been through a full week of driving and jolts. Haven't moved a bit. They're pretty light aluminum construction.

As for tip over damage, well...the $40 lamp will be the least of my worries if it's serious enough. Could damage the radiator but they fold inward on the mount and it's likely they would tuck under weight of bike and then would almost be flush with slider/fairing.

It is a very good location with easy mounting. If you go higher, probably looking at fork mounting, then you have clearance issues as you sweep bars. I'm not cutting plastic to mount.
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Old February 20th, 2014, 12:36 PM   #63
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Originally Posted by gatdammit View Post
StefanR, need some help with Moto LED install.

1. Where did you splice into high-beam wire? At the rear of headlight housing?
2. Where did you ground the lamps?
3. Did you install a relay? I see what looks like a relay box just aft of your lamps in-line with the wire. Mine didn't come with one and since I'm piggy-backing off high-beam and it's a relatively short length, didn't think I needed relay's.
4. The lamps have built in overheat protection. Did you install a fuse anyway?
5. Are there actual positive & negative leads? I know with some driving lamps that it doesn't matter.

The lamps are very good quality for the money but I didn't get any instructions included. There website is just a market with no manuals or details on the wiring.
1. I took apart the connector that fits in the back of the headlight housing. The connector has 4 wires, high, low, ground and parking. I connected one extra wire to the high beam (yellow/grey) and one extra wire to the ground (black) by brazing. See first picture. Maybe it is easier for you to take off the isolation of the harness and connect the extra wire there. I also used extra waterproof connectors to make it look nice. Attached them to the frame with melting glue. See second picture.
2. Se above
3. No relay installed. As you know I am installing a Xenon projector kit and relay for that. That means I will only stress the original high beam wire with 60W for the led lamps. The box after the lamps is a ferrite core to avoid radio interference. I have a radio in my helmet.
4. As I connected them to the high beam, there is a fuse. The fuse is in the front fuse box, and is 10A. 12V*10A=120W. If you want to flash with your high beam, the total current will be about 10A. (55W(low)+60W(high)+30W+30W(led)+parking+rear). I did change it to 15 A to be on the safe side.
5. I think there is. Wrong connected = no light. Just try.

What'd you do to your Hyperstrada today?-bild1.jpg
What'd you do to your Hyperstrada today?-bild2.jpg
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Old February 20th, 2014, 02:40 PM   #64
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Originally Posted by dragoontwo View Post
Did you replace the bolts with shorter ones? If so what length and pitch?
To quote myself, I took my spacers off today. Instead of getting shorter bolts, I just reinstalled the bolts from the bottom. There's enough threaded portion for this to work.
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Old February 20th, 2014, 05:43 PM   #65
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Quote:
Originally Posted by StefanR View Post
1. I took apart the connector that fits in the back of the headlight housing. The connector has 4 wires, high, low, ground and parking. I connected one extra wire to the high beam (yellow/grey) and one extra wire to the ground (black) by brazing. See first picture. Maybe it is easier for you to take off the isolation of the harness and connect the extra wire there. I also used extra waterproof connectors to make it look nice. Attached them to the frame with melting glue. See second picture.
2. Se above
3. No relay installed. As you know I am installing a Xenon projector kit and relay for that. That means I will only stress the original high beam wire with 60W for the led lamps. The box after the lamps is a ferrite core to avoid radio interference. I have a radio in my helmet.
4. As I connected them to the high beam, there is a fuse. The fuse is in the front fuse box, and is 10A. 12V*10A=120W. If you want to flash with your high beam, the total current will be about 10A. (55W(low)+60W(high)+30W+30W(led)+parking+rear). I did change it to 15 A to be on the safe side.
5. I think there is. Wrong connected = no light. Just try.
Thanks a lot, Stefan. I was really good with stereo's back in the day, but this did not translate to sound general auto electrical knowledge.

Last question: you kept factory high beam fuse slot but upgraded to 15A? Want to be sure you didn't mean you added a stand-alone fuse in the empty slot in forward fuse box.

Nice job. Love bi-xenon projector, too.
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Old February 20th, 2014, 08:17 PM   #66
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Originally Posted by gatdammit View Post
Thanks a lot, Stefan. I was really good with stereo's back in the day, but this did not translate to sound general auto electrical knowledge.

Last question: you kept factory high beam fuse slot but upgraded to 15A? Want to be sure you didn't mean you added a stand-alone fuse in the empty slot in forward fuse box.

Nice job. Love bi-xenon projector, too.
I kept factory high beam fuse slot but upgraded to 15A.
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Old February 21st, 2014, 04:18 AM   #67
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Originally Posted by dragoontwo View Post
Did you replace the bolts with shorter ones? If so what length and pitch?
sorry for the late reply. i also used the original bolts, but cut them to size

Quote:
Originally Posted by dragoontwo View Post
To quote myself, I took my spacers off today. Instead of getting shorter bolts, I just reinstalled the bolts from the bottom. There's enough threaded portion for this to work.
dang, if i've known the bolts can be reinstalled without cutting...

now i have to buy a new set of bolts if i plan on putting back the spacers
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Old February 21st, 2014, 06:43 AM   #68
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Originally Posted by gatdammit View Post
I used a 20mm bolt that equalled the depth of stock bolt after spacers and bracket thickness. I used washers that sank into radiator bolt washer indent plus loctite. They've been through a full week of driving and jolts. Haven't moved a bit. They're pretty light aluminum construction.

As for tip over damage, well...the $40 lamp will be the least of my worries if it's serious enough. Could damage the radiator but they fold inward on the mount and it's likely they would tuck under weight of bike and then would almost be flush with slider/fairing.

It is a very good location with easy mounting. If you go higher, probably looking at fork mounting, then you have clearance issues as you sweep bars. I'm not cutting plastic to mount.
I'm not willing to try it out, I think even a tipover at a stop would F the rad. Instead, I'm going to use the fairing mounting bolt, just behind the radiator. I'll make a short spacer, and the steel bracket it's fastened to should bend a bit without major damage. Might even make a custom adapter, as the U-bracket looks kind of cheap.
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Old February 21st, 2014, 06:45 AM   #69
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Originally Posted by StefanR View Post
I kept factory high beam fuse slot but upgraded to 15A.
Stefan, be aware that fuses are sized according to the wire gauge, not the anticipated load. I would never replace a fuse with a higher rated one without verifying that the wiring will not be overloaded.
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Old February 21st, 2014, 07:23 AM   #70
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I can easily swap to a bracket mount, like on the Multi, when available. The Multi's lamp bracket uses the radiator bolt for mounting but it is pulled inward to reduce width and the lamps are smaller.

I'm probably going to install an in line fuse for just the lamps.
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