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Old May 23rd, 2015, 10:45 PM   #11
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Weird, try this?

BEFORE

http://vid1293.photobucket.com/album...b/IMG_7009.mp4

AFTER
http://vid1293.photobucket.com/album...b/IMG_7008.mp4
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Old May 23rd, 2015, 11:40 PM   #12
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Cheers Pabst.
Worked great this time.
Best comparison sound vids I've come across. You can clearly hear the difference.

Is it as simple as removing the screws, or is there a back up spot weld you have to deal with also on the screws ? As I'm sure I read somewhere on Ducati.ms that they mentioned there was weld there to stop screws backing out under vibration ?
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Old May 24th, 2015, 07:48 AM   #13
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Nope, no welds on mine, it was really simple, no loctite either. It literally took under a minute. I think they might be talking about the actual valve? I'm just removing the cover plate screws and disconnecting on cable for the valve, similar to removing the cable to bicycle brakes, just turn the valve by hand until there's slack and put the cable out of the slot.

Last edited by Pabst; May 24th, 2015 at 08:07 AM.
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Old May 24th, 2015, 08:03 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zibbit u2 View Post
Removing the plate does make the bike louder, and a little more free reving.. However it does reduce a little Tq down low, and you'll notice your exhaust will pop a little on decel.

Don't disconnect the cables, just remove the two little screws holding the plate on the shaft.. That way it won't throw a code.
I don't understand this, the two screws I found are just for the cover plate covering the valve and cable and they won't do anything except expose it so you're able to disconnect it. An ebay seller of the modules to prevent throwing codes says 2013-2014 Hypers will not throw a code if the cable is disconnected, mine hasn't thrown one yet. I'm not actually removing anything, just the cable.
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Old May 24th, 2015, 09:59 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pabst View Post
Nope, no welds on mine, it was really simple, no loctite either. It literally took under a minute. I think they might be talking about the actual valve? I'm just removing the cover plate screws and disconnecting on cable for the valve, similar to removing the cable to bicycle brakes, just turn the valve by hand until there's slack and put the cable out of the slot.
Ohhhh yes, I see what you're talking about. The 2 screws you're referring to are for the cover for the rotating cable mechanism. The screws I was referring to are the ones holding the flapper valve onto the pivot inside the exhaust pipe. The latter are welded on IIRC. So it's easiest to simply disconnect the cable.
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Old May 24th, 2015, 03:46 PM   #16
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The two screws I was referring to are accessed after you remove the rear slip on (inside the pipe) that hold the flapper plate. Yes they're spot welded, so use a dremel tool and a grinder wheel or cutoff wheel and remove the spot weld.. After that unscrew them and remove the plate. Before you install the slip back on, start the bike and it'll blow any shavings out of the pipe (warning it'll be loud). Then reinstall the slip on. Total time to complete the job is about 15 minutes.

If you disconnect the cables, it'll throw a hidden error code. Removing the plate and leaving the cables alone doesn't have any errors associated with it.

Last edited by zibbit u2; May 24th, 2015 at 03:48 PM.
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Old May 24th, 2015, 04:01 PM   #17
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Here's a good link which shows the procedure.. Look at post #2

SC-Project CR-T Exhaust Install - Ducati.ms - The Ultimate Ducati Forum
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Old May 24th, 2015, 10:39 PM   #18
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Oh, okay, now I see the two screws. Thanks.
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