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Old August 5th, 2015, 04:18 PM   #1
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2013 Issues on New Bike

I wanted to reach out to the forum. I just purchased a brand new 2013 Ducati Hyperstrada in July 2015. A ten on a fun factor, but questioning the quality. I have 700 miles on the bike and have had the Low Oil Pressure light come on and stall out. Would not restart, so lucky me I was within 1 mile from home after a 160 mile ride and pushed it home. I filled up with 93 premium at a Marathon Station (which offers no corn fuel) 80 miles before it stalled. No idea what might have caused this. I also have had about a dozen false neutral between 5th and 6th gear. And finally, under normal braking conditions the rear brake squeaks something very annoying. Under hard braking conditions it does not.
Just a bit disappointing to have these issues on a new bike. I had a 2013 Speed Triple that ran perfect to buy this bike.
Any guidance would be appreciated.

JC
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Old August 5th, 2015, 08:29 PM   #2
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Haven't had a low oil pressure issue, that one I'd be taking it into the dealer to get it checked out.

At 9000 km, I also get an occasional false neutral between 5-6. Strangely enough the bike shifts better up/down clutch-less and will never false neutral. These dukes must like being ridden harder, because you've really gotta kick it when your using the clutch.

Every Brembo caliper squeaks a little, your pad backing plates might need a little cleaning/lube depending how dusty of a climate your riding in.

Last edited by zibbit u2; August 5th, 2015 at 09:30 PM.
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Old August 5th, 2015, 09:17 PM   #3
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Added: Something you might want to try is lowering the shift pedal down like 1/8" - 1/4". I have heard this sometimes makes things easier so you're not having to lift your toes up as high (which can be difficult wearing full race boots which restrict your movement).
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Old August 6th, 2015, 08:49 AM   #4
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Thank you

Thank you for the information.

If you were to shift clutch-less does that do any damage to the transmission. I also read that the 2013's have experienced clutch cable braking, because the 2013's don't have a plastic sleeve on the cable end, but it sounds like if I were stranded with a broken cable, that I could shift clutch-less??

The low pressure light and stalling makes me the most frustrated, as it somewhat unpredictable. I have my first service schedule for this Saturday, so will see if the dealer solutions for this issue.
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Old August 6th, 2015, 10:35 AM   #5
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Get the oil pressure light checked; that's a new one here.

I had stalling between upper gear shifts when my 13 was new. ECU update fixed that. As for false neutrals, you really have to mind your clutch play. This bike does not like being out of limits with the clutch play adjustment. Could be your shop just didn't dial in correctly. The manual tells you how to set it. On that note, I hate the stock setting and adjust the grab way closer, which my shop always dicks with when it goes in. I mark the threads on the adjuster for my preference.

Brake squeal: lube the bobbins. Many of us went through discs and pads for noisy brakes and in the end I think it all has to do with the bobbins sticking. They are the discs that look like a hipsters gauged ear rings. They allow the disc to float, which can create a lot of friction/noise if not working properly. Throw some light gun oil or similar just around the tracks and avoid getting on the disc.
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Old August 6th, 2015, 10:35 AM   #6
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Car transmissions are generally Synchromesh transmissions because they're quieter and smoother to operate. How they're operated, is between every gear there is a wear item known as a synchro which is designed to equalize the rotational speed between adjacent gears to make a smooth engagement. Engine power must be removed and time is required for the synchro to work properly. If you do not allow this to happen, results in the typical "grinding the gears," which as we all know happens in a lot of older cars after years of abuse.

Bikes, or purpose built auto racing transmissions are Dog Box (Dog Toothed) transmissions which don't necessarily need a clutch to facilitate a gear change. How they're operated, is every transmission gear has multiple large blocks of metal (known as dogs) which are machined into the gear to interact with adjacent gears to equalize rotational speeds. How a dog box can be operated is they need a momentary break in engine power which can be accomplished by either blipping of the throttle (or equalizing the throttle so you're neither accerating or decelerating) or a momentary clutch engagement. You do however still require a clutch when you're stopped or starting in 1st gear.

So in a manner of speaking, yes, you could ride the bike home with a broken clutch cable. However stop and go traffic would probably break the transmission if you were to somehow manage to find neutral, and kick it into gear to start moving.

Clutch-less shifting on a dog toothed transmission takes practice to do it properly to minimize wear, however these transmissions were designed with that in mind. So practice it before you need to do it.. Practice practice practice

Hopefully this information helps you out, and doesn't confuse you too much.

If you would like further reading on the subject;

Synchromesh vs. Dog Box - Gearbox Beatdown - Import Tuner Magazine

Last edited by zibbit u2; August 6th, 2015 at 01:27 PM.
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Old August 6th, 2015, 10:39 AM   #7
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This is also how speed shifters work on bikes. They just kill the ignition for a split second as you apply pressure to the shifter.
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Old August 6th, 2015, 10:45 AM   #8
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Yup, you got it
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Old August 6th, 2015, 01:59 PM   #9
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Mine got false neutrals, mostly in the higher gears, but sometimes lower. It shirts better now, hopefully it's something that will go away with the miles. I had a '99 Triumph Sprint ST and it had false neutrals all over when new, but after about 5K miles it shifted perfectly. Hopefully our transmission problems will disappear like my Triumph's did.
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Old August 6th, 2015, 02:29 PM   #10
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For what it's worth: I had a spankin' new Fireblade (Tiger version) back in the old days.
Although it's a Honda, it took about 3000 kms (2000 mls) before the gears shifted smoothly.
Before that, it grinded gears on a regular base.

Oil warning light: perhaps a loose sensor? Maybe it needs a reset or something?
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