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Old October 21st, 2015, 01:07 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Yama Hu View Post
I don't have torque key .. will be ok if I only use regular key and tide it as much as I can ?
Thanks you all for suggestions !!!
If by "key" you mean "wrench" - you might. You have to align the holes in the nut and axle - and if you're using a 24" breaker bar you should be tight enough when that happens. I had a torque wrench and couldn't get to 230nm, but the holes aligned - so far everything seems fine. You'll still have to torque the hell out of it though - and don't forget the grease.
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Old October 21st, 2015, 05:26 PM   #12
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For me this is one of those real important stress points on the bike.....I'd prefer to buy the tool and do it correctly.
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Old October 21st, 2015, 09:16 PM   #13
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Originally Posted by AussieHyper View Post
For me this is one of those real important stress points on the bike.....I'd prefer to buy the tool and do it correctly.
I bought the tools and with all my might I couldn't get a 1/2" drive, 24" long torque wrench to click at 230nm. But the holes were aligned so in went the safety clip. Not ideal but ....
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Old October 22nd, 2015, 12:30 AM   #14
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Originally Posted by appliance821 View Post
I bought the tools and with all my might I couldn't get a 1/2" drive, 24" long torque wrench to click at 230nm. But the holes were aligned so in went the safety clip. Not ideal but ....
Understand what you say and agree that if you get close that's good and your protected with the lock nut.

But everyone seems to think that you can only use a 24 inch torque wrench and I can image that it could be hard to get the 230 nm....so the easy solution is grab a length of water pipe and slip it over the wrench and away you go...ie a bigger lever is all that's needed just as long as you don't foul the torque mechanism if it's a bar on bar tool.
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Old October 22nd, 2015, 08:09 AM   #15
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Originally Posted by AussieHyper View Post
Understand what you say and agree that if you get close that's good and your protected with the lock nut.

But everyone seems to think that you can only use a 24 inch torque wrench and I can image that it could be hard to get the 230 nm....so the easy solution is grab a length of water pipe and slip it over the wrench and away you go...ie a bigger lever is all that's needed just as long as you don't foul the torque mechanism if it's a bar on bar tool.
Appreciate the info..
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Old October 22nd, 2015, 06:41 PM   #16
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Please ppl don't use a breaker bar on your torque wrenches.. They're not designed or calibrated for that. The torque wrench I use is built by Jet tools, it's a 3 ft click type measured in Ft/lbs.. Even with my tiny arms, I can torque the rear wheel nut by myself using the rear brake to stop the rotation without breaking a sweat.
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Old October 27th, 2015, 08:47 AM   #17
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Old December 18th, 2016, 06:07 PM   #18
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Coming back to this - the manual has 2 values depending on where you look. In the actual wheel removal section the torque is listed at 230 nm, but in the torque value section it is listed at 176nm. 176 is a lot easier - what have people been going with?

This post: http://www.ducati.ms/forums/92-hyper...ification.html settled on 176.

Last edited by appliance821; December 18th, 2016 at 06:20 PM.
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Old December 18th, 2016, 06:32 PM   #19
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I went with 230 initially, and it is a BEAR to get off. Like, really bad. Last time I went with 176. The locking pin still lined up. Felt tight enough. Dunno. How about split the difference and go 200?
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Old December 19th, 2016, 03:40 PM   #20
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If the manual is conflicted on this data point, consider checking with a dealer. If wheels have been coming off using 176, they'll know it better than any of us. If they say 230, you have your answer either way. Please let us know what you find out. I haven't had to take mine off yet.
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