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Old October 15th, 2015, 06:34 PM   #1
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Rear wheel removing

Hi,
I know should not be hard but I wonder if someone can share experience how to remove rear wheel on HS. What kind of tools I will need ... I guess there is no need to remove chain.
All suggestion welcome
Thanks
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Old October 15th, 2015, 09:26 PM   #2
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remove the giant nut with a huge wrench
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Old October 16th, 2015, 03:38 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kuksul08 View Post
remove the giant nut with a huge wrench


Don't forget to put it back using the proper torque (dunno how much though).
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Old October 16th, 2015, 07:44 AM   #4
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First remove the safety clip. Note there are 2 holes in the axle and nut that realign when you put the clip back on. I also use a small zip-tie on the clip after reattaching.

to get the nut off (46mm) you might need a breaker bar - it is a bitch. When putting it back on use an anti seize grease. The torque is - I think - 230nm - good luck getting there. I tightened it (really tight - but couldn't get the torque wrench - 1/2 inch with 24" handle-to click - tight enough though) until the holes lined up and put in the pin.

No need to remove the exhaust.

Last edited by appliance821; October 16th, 2015 at 07:50 AM.
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Old October 16th, 2015, 09:40 AM   #5
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Originally Posted by appliance821 View Post
First remove the safety clip. Note there are 2 holes in the axle and nut that realign when you put the clip back on. I also use a small zip-tie on the clip after reattaching.

to get the nut off (46mm) you might need a breaker bar - it is a bitch. When putting it back on use an anti seize grease. The torque is - I think - 230nm - good luck getting there. I tightened it (really tight - but couldn't get the torque wrench - 1/2 inch with 24" handle-to click - tight enough though) until the holes lined up and put in the pin.

No need to remove the exhaust.
no, the torque is 176nm
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Old October 16th, 2015, 04:59 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ferdi View Post
no, the torque is 176nm
This is from the manual:

Fit the spacer (4) with the tapered side facing the wheel, and washer (3); apply the recommended grease to the nut (2) and start nut (2) by hand.
Tighten the nut (1) to a torque of 230 Nm 10%, checking that the hole on the nut is aligned with one of those on the wheel shaft.
Fit the clip (1), fitting the end into one of the holes in the shaft, orienting it as shown in the figure.

where did you get your torque value? The manual isn't always correct but that's what I went with.
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Old October 17th, 2015, 12:52 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by appliance821 View Post
This is from the manual:

Fit the spacer (4) with the tapered side facing the wheel, and washer (3); apply the recommended grease to the nut (2) and start nut (2) by hand.
Tighten the nut (1) to a torque of 230 Nm 10%, checking that the hole on the nut is aligned with one of those on the wheel shaft.
Fit the clip (1), fitting the end into one of the holes in the shaft, orienting it as shown in the figure.

where did you get your torque value? The manual isn't always correct but that's what I went with.
i have it from the workshop/repair manual

but just have seen i used the wrong entry.

you are copmpletly right, it's 230 nm 10% , as you have written.
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Old October 17th, 2015, 02:14 AM   #8
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And the back brake will hold the wheel as you undo and tighten the nut.....I've watched the guys when they replaced my tires recently. Not sure if these pictures are of any use.....but....



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Old October 21st, 2015, 09:33 AM   #9
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I don't have torque key .. will be ok if I only use regular key and tide it as much as I can ?
Thanks you all for suggestions !!!
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Old October 21st, 2015, 12:28 PM   #10
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Originally Posted by Yama Hu View Post
I don't have torque key .. will be ok if I only use regular key and tide it as much as I can ?
Thanks you all for suggestions !!!
i would say so.
when i fastened mine, it only clicked at "full throttle", but keep in mind, in fact i am from Austria, but i am not Arnie .
so, if you look like Mike Tyson, i would not use all my power
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