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Old March 27th, 2017, 10:29 PM   #21
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I Ride: 821 Hypermotard SP


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Old March 28th, 2017, 08:41 AM   #22
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Interesting... didn't realize it was in the manual.

Is this something you have to do for maintenance, or just decided to do? Did you set it to stock settings, or something else?

Looks like a pretty involved process.
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Old March 28th, 2017, 09:30 AM   #23
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Do you have any photos of how all the sensors are connected?
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Old March 28th, 2017, 10:56 AM   #24
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Originally Posted by kuksul08 View Post
Interesting... didn't realize it was in the manual.

Is this something you have to do for maintenance, or just decided to do? Did you set it to stock settings, or something else?

Looks like a pretty involved process.
Yes, it is very time consuming. When I was a Porsche tech we paid close attention to this. It made a big difference.
Factory builds tend to rough this in. Unlike earlier engines, the 821 has adjustable sprockets making this possible. The main thing is to get the settings consistent. That's​ what makes the smoothness. You can cheat the timing early or late depending on whether you want more midrange or top end.
Don't forget, valve clearance affects valve timing too.

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Old March 28th, 2017, 01:24 PM   #25
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Originally Posted by fredgilb View Post
Yes, it is very time consuming. When I was a Porsche tech we paid close attention to this. It made a big difference.
Factory builds tend to rough this in. Unlike earlier engines, the 821 has adjustable sprockets making this possible. The main thing is to get the settings consistent. That's​ what makes the smoothness. You can cheat the timing early or late depending on whether you want more midrange or top end.
Don't forget, valve clearance affects valve timing too.

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Cool, good to know! I would assume there is a default position from the factory, maybe marked on the gears themselves?

How far off were yours from the correct setting? I probably won't mess with it because I don't have all these special tools, but it's nice to know it can be done.
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Old March 30th, 2017, 08:20 PM   #26
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Do you have any photos of how all the sensors are connected?
It's just the wideband O2 installed in the pipe (pics in 1st post), and then you must tap into the wiring harness to pick up the remaining signals. These 0-5V signals go straight into the logger.

Pin 28 - Grey/Yellow - Ignition Coil 1
Pin 39 - Green/Blue - Throttle Grip
Pin 48 - Orange/Blue - TPS 1

Plus a switched relay for powering the unit only when the engine is running.
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Old April 2nd, 2017, 02:54 PM   #27
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Just reporting back from a decently long ride today. Put in about 120 miles. The new tune is ridiculously good. I let my friend ride the bike, and he commented on how good it feels now, "like a whole new bike". It's smooth everywhere and makes very linear power. Highway cruising is also much much smoother.

Sufficed to say I'm very happy and it was worth the effort. I'm still going to do a double-check data log but it's feeling pretty great now. It's still the same map I posted above. One thing I did change though was I turned off Average Cell in the map configuration. It gives more precise control over each region rather than averaging.

If anyone wants to try running that map I'd be curious how it feels on your bike.
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Old April 3rd, 2017, 02:45 PM   #28
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One thing I forgot to mention earlier that I finally figured out how to do without a dyno.

The TPS in the RB software has to be calibrated. The factory values were 0.64 to 4.12V. I plugged it in, ran the "calibrate" routine, and threw my laptop in my backpack. The range actually went from 0.60 to 4.55V, which coincides with my data logger. However some of that is electrical noise, so with some averaging I changed the range to 0.64 MIN, 4.45 MAX. This will make sure the corrections are being applied to the correct TPS/RPM region.
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Old April 3rd, 2017, 07:31 PM   #29
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I'll load the map and corrections next week and report back
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Old April 4th, 2017, 05:35 AM   #30
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someone please, stick this post,

great work!!
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