Ducati Hyperstrada Forums Ducati Hyperstrada Motorcycle

Go Back   Ducati Hyperstrada Forum > Ducati Hyperstrada Forum > Mechanical and Technical

Mechanical and Technical Mechanical and technical topics, help, and discussions


Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
Old March 12th, 2018, 08:02 PM   #71
Senior Member
 
Joined: Jul 2014
From: California
Posts: 1,137

Quote:
Originally Posted by Tyjamo View Post
Right, so we can only use the EVO and the standard software. Even so, I should still be able to re download your map each time I put it back on the Hyper.
How has fuel consumption been affected by your map?
Which muffler are you running, Kuksul?
Yeah, you can change the map that's true. As long as both bikes have the same configuration of cylinders.

Stock muffler. Ducati performance intake cover (that came with the termi high exhaust).

I don't ride it consistently enough to note any difference in fuel consumption, so I can't really comment here. Based on my riding style and mapping changes, I bet my mileage went down by 5-10%.
kuksul08 is online now   Reply With Quote
 
Old March 14th, 2018, 08:58 AM   #72
Member
 
Joined: Jun 2015
From: Sacramento
Posts: 56

I'm still running kuksul08's map. '15 Strada with stock muffler and performance intake plus mwr power up kit. It's not perfect but close enough.

I'm definitely getting worse gas mileage, but almost all of my riding since I loaded the map has been rather aggressive... although that may be permanent problem I have now.
Devinjc is offline   Reply With Quote
Old June 22nd, 2018, 09:24 AM   #73
Senior Member
 
gatdammit's Avatar
 
Joined: Mar 2013
From: Naples, IT
Posts: 1,987

I Ride: 2013 White Strada
I got a bad flat spot between 3500-5500 rpm. It will just keep running out of steam if I loiter in that band and I have to goose it to wake it up. After normal 25-30 min run, it almost stalls at idle. It bounces in a slow arc right around 1000 rpm and has stalled once.

Gonna load your map this weekend. Hoping my dying starter jostled the RB when it had some really bad short cycles trying to turn over. Rode the button too long once and got a light show after it failed to fire and even the "errors" warning. Reset my gear indicator so I know it blasted bad trons through the system.
gatdammit is offline   Reply With Quote
Old July 10th, 2018, 05:28 PM   #74
Senior Member
 
Joined: Sep 2017
From: Lansing Mi
Posts: 106

I Ride: 2013 hypermotard/hyperstrada, 2005 zx6r, drz125, crf50 crf70
I may have found my increasing sputtering and popping. When going through the tuning flow through, under "RB Features" there is a "pump correction" tab. That was disabled. Is that supposed to be disabled or enabled? I only took it for a quick spin around the block but at first feel the sputtering and popping has gone away. Kuksul08, is this supposed to be enabled? I also did the TPS calibration to the voltage limits that you recommend. I did that with the bike running then hit "calibrate throttle" and input the numbers manually. Then clicked apply then turned off "calibrate throttle". Then disconnected. Does that sound about right or did I miss a step in the TPS calibration?
Araitim is offline   Reply With Quote
Old July 10th, 2018, 06:03 PM   #75
Senior Member
 
Joined: Jul 2014
From: California
Posts: 1,137

Quote:
Originally Posted by Araitim View Post
I may have found my increasing sputtering and popping. When going through the tuning flow through, under "RB Features" there is a "pump correction" tab. That was disabled. Is that supposed to be disabled or enabled? I only took it for a quick spin around the block but at first feel the sputtering and popping has gone away. Kuksul08, is this supposed to be enabled? I also did the TPS calibration to the voltage limits that you recommend. I did that with the bike running then hit "calibrate throttle" and input the numbers manually. Then clicked apply then turned off "calibrate throttle". Then disconnected. Does that sound about right or did I miss a step in the TPS calibration?
I don't recall messing with the pump correction at all.

The calibrate throttle routine is intended to be run on a dyno so the throttle plates can open all the way. You can simply enter the voltage values without doing the calibration. The more critical number is the lower limit because that will affect how the bike runs just off idle and with the throttle cracked. Warm up the engine and plug in the RB and see where it sits. That's your Min value. The max value is less critical.

Can you go into more detail about the sputtering? Popping noises aside, you should focus on whether the bike is able to maintain speed at say 20-30mph. Did you change the first column to 2%?
kuksul08 is online now   Reply With Quote
Old July 10th, 2018, 07:15 PM   #76
Senior Member
 
Joined: Sep 2017
From: Lansing Mi
Posts: 106

I Ride: 2013 hypermotard/hyperstrada, 2005 zx6r, drz125, crf50 crf70
It will start sputtering and backfiring about 1/4 throttle. It will pop and back fire. I took it all back apart to look things over and check the valve gap and they were all good. I also added the aprilia coil packs to try and resolve the issue
But it is still there. It seems worse since checking valve gaps so my son and I pulled it all back apart and went through every connector and firing thinking there was a loose wire or cacuum leak. I dont see any leaks of wires. Ut we moved wires around anyways. I unplugged the ecu and rapidbike while I had the tank out. We focused on the fuel line so as not to pinch it. I started thinkin I need to do a master reset on thebrapidbikento see if that helps but found this feature turned off and thought I missed something. I also did new plugs when I did coil packs. I was thinking it could need the TPS reset so I called ducati Detroit and they said to bring it up and I'll do it while I wait. I also read that the ambient temp sensor might be an issue related to the popping and sputtering. It was hot today and the bike was inside but it read around the 80 mark. Im grasping at straws here. I started wondering if their was air in the fuel line if that would cause my issue and since the bike doesnt have a fuel loop was seriously considering manualing priming the line by filling the line at an angle upward to eliminate any potential air. The popping happens when holding the throttle steady at first but gets progressively worse as I ride. To the point where the bike will pop bang and not accelerate for a large delay then take off like a bat out of hell then pop n backfire till I let off. The butterfly has been removed from the exhaust servo for a while but after the process of installing the carbon belt covers and coils I noticed the servo sounded more labored so when my son and I had it apart we moved the cable. Lubed the cable and reattached it to the servo. The servo now sounds normal. Any ideas? I cant najera it 3 miles up the road without it becoming unbearable. So long to my after work decompression rides.

Quote:
Originally Posted by kuksul08 View Post
I don't recall messing with the pump correction at all.

The calibrate throttle routine is intended to be run on a dyno so the throttle plates can open all the way. You can simply enter the voltage values without doing the calibration. The more critical number is the lower limit because that will affect how the bike runs just off idle and with the throttle cracked. Warm up the engine and plug in the RB and see where it sits. That's your Min value. The max value is less critical.

Can you go into more detail about the sputtering? Popping noises aside, you should focus on whether the bike is able to maintain speed at say 20-30mph. Did you change the first column to 2%?
Araitim is offline   Reply With Quote
Old July 10th, 2018, 07:30 PM   #77
Senior Member
 
Joined: Jul 2014
From: California
Posts: 1,137

Wow, well that definitely doesn't sound right. If you ride it hard, does it run fine?

No error lights?

If it runs well when riding hard, it's probably not a fuel delivery issue, otherwise that would be starving it when it needs the most fuel. Try setting your fuel map to 0 across the board so the RB is not doing anything. You can also try unplugging your O2 sensors - this will make the bike go into open loop mode after a few minutes. You will get an error light on the dash, but it will eliminate any O2 sensor variable.

Also check for obvious vacuum leaks, disconnected hoses, etc.
kuksul08 is online now   Reply With Quote
Old July 10th, 2018, 11:18 PM   #78
Senior Member
 
gatdammit's Avatar
 
Joined: Mar 2013
From: Naples, IT
Posts: 1,987

I Ride: 2013 White Strada
I seem to have a less extreme version of your problem. It stutters pretty bad - not awful - between 2500 and 5500 rpm. After warm, rpm's drop below 1000 when I let off throttle and it almost stalls, then settles in a slow bouncing idle below normal level. I can tell I'm not getting all of the motor at full whack but, I have so many other parts in need of replacement (chain, clutch, tires, etc.) that this could be an amalgamation of warn parts. I'm also pretty close to valve adjustment interval.

My butt dyno also tells me it's just running a little rough when pushing it hard. Just not as smooth when healthy. I did plugs and air filter about 6K miles ago. I'm going to do a top to bottom when I tear her apart for starter, clutch mod, chain, sprockets job soon.

Again, this was a progressive issue for me after moving to Europe. I'm not ruling out fouled fuel filter. I always request "Super" but really don't know what the Italian attendant is pumping into my gal as the full service pumps are pretty camouflaged since the attendant is the only guy that has to decipher them.

Worst case, it gets investigated when I drop her for 18K desmo service soon. I did notice my shop recommends this at 15K, but I could have been interpreting the type of service incorrectly.
gatdammit is offline   Reply With Quote
Old July 11th, 2018, 03:01 AM   #79
Senior Member
 
Joined: Sep 2017
From: Lansing Mi
Posts: 106

I Ride: 2013 hypermotard/hyperstrada, 2005 zx6r, drz125, crf50 crf70
If ridden hard it will jump and backfire harder then even out for a second then back to sputtering. What are your thoughts ik gra about the ambient air temp sensor. I am trying to take note as to weather or not it is worse in the morning when it is colder on my way to work or when it is warmer on my way home but my ride is only 5 miles. I wait for the bike to start reading an engine temp before I ride it. I am at 14k miles so I am near the service interval but just checked the valve clearance and was informed that they would have been left alone as they were still in tolerances. I checked the belt tension using the tuner hz method and they were all in tolerances. I was looking to do a master reset to the rapidbike to see if that is causing issues but I'm not seeing how to do that or if it's even possible. I plan to check for vacuum leaks next if this doesn't work. What are your thoughts on having the TPS reset. That seems to be a common "go to" remedy for issues. I am unsure if the bike has even received any firmware updates so ducati will look at that too of I have them reset the TPS. I also asked about re synching the throttle bodies and they said that wasnt a thing on this bike due to it not having manual linkages due to ride by wire but alot of the other "go to" remedies suggest to have them re synched(I wasnt speaking to a mechanic at ducati Detroit when he told me that, it seemed like he was just relaying messages). Everything was good till I did the belt covers which makes me think I missed something. Before when I originally did the mapping I had a similar issue but it seemed to have gone away. I rode the bike for a good 200 Mike's after doing the coil swap and plugs and it was fine then as well. It seemed to really go haywire after a simple(far more involved that I would have ever expected) belt cover swap. I did break a stud off in the head when pulling the front cylinder while pulling the header off but with a bit of elbow grease and some vise grips in was able to remove it and replace with a new. There is also no error lights on the dash. What are your thoughts on air being in the fuel line and going back In to 'bleed' the line as I install the tank?
Araitim is offline   Reply With Quote
Old July 11th, 2018, 04:01 AM   #80
Senior Member
 
Joined: Sep 2017
From: Lansing Mi
Posts: 106

I Ride: 2013 hypermotard/hyperstrada, 2005 zx6r, drz125, crf50 crf70
The ride intowork, like yesterday, it ran really strong only today it didnt start falling on its face. Yesterday when I was almost to work it was stumbling and popping a bit by the time I made it in. Now, ambient temp was actually 62-65 but the bike was reading 69-70. My ambient temp read out has never read factual. Riding in the winter when its 30 out the display would always stay around 50. Could this be the cause of all my issues?
Araitim is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

  Ducati Hyperstrada Forum > Ducati Hyperstrada Forum > Mechanical and Technical

Tags
adventures, hypermotard, tuning



Thread Tools
Display Modes


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
FS: Hypermotard Top Bag chiliredlotus Classifieds 1 March 18th, 2016 10:25 AM
Ducati Backyard Adventures (on a Hyperstrada) RSL Ride Reports 4 October 8th, 2015 11:32 AM
Rexxer Tuning against surging ferdi Mechanical and Technical 5 June 23rd, 2015 10:10 AM
Backyard Adventures with the Hyperstrada pazzo Ducati Hyperstrada 6 April 16th, 2015 06:21 PM
MotoGeo Adventures Ducati Hyperstrada jerdog53 Motorcycle Talk 7 October 15th, 2013 01:00 PM


Ducati Hyperstrada Facebook Ducati Hyperstrada Twitter Ducati Hyperstrada RSS Feed



Ducati Hyperstrada Motorcycle Forum
Copyright © 2012-2014 HYPERSTRADA.COM • All rights reserved.