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Old September 9th, 2017, 06:27 AM   #11
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From: Philadelphia USA
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I Ride: 2013 Hyperstrada
The parts were on my doorstep when I got home yesterday. I'm now looking at vids and reading tutorials for changing the air filter. WTF? Why does half the bike half to come apart for this? Not a very good design to make accessing a consumable engine component so difficult.
Whatever. Any tips and tricks I should know about not covered in threads here already?

They have half of my county ripped up installing a new pipeline. They've managed to contaminate the Chester Creek with this because they are running the pipeline through the park for said creek. Way to go!
Luckily my township voted against it coming through here where I live. But the rain is washing that silicate crap everywhere and it's flowing down into my neighborhood too. Our rain puddles look like milk. In ten years they'll announce some horrifying illness or birth defects associated with the stuff I'm sure.

Ok let me get outside and examine the job I need to do on this bike and make sure I have all the tools I need.
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Old September 9th, 2017, 07:03 AM   #12
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How many miles on your bike? Air filter needs changing quite rarely on this bike
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Old September 9th, 2017, 07:41 AM   #13
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The bike just hit 8K. It had 5700+ when I bought it in March so its gotten a fair amount of riding and some of that has been off-road. The last few off-road rides were pretty dusty ones and lately the engine seems to be running rough and throttle response has gotten more poor than usual.
Plus I'm planning a camping trip for later in the month up in the mountains so I'll be riding off-road some more soon and I want the bike running good for that trip.
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Old September 9th, 2017, 08:43 AM   #14
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Your call, but I would say that 8k is about 10k premature for air filter change.
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Old September 9th, 2017, 09:43 AM   #15
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How the F**K do I get those last two screws on the handlebar side of the air box cover?
I can't even fit the socket alone in there! Do I need to take out the voltage regulator?
It doesn't even look to be enough room without that there.
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Old September 9th, 2017, 10:46 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by philthymike View Post
How the F**K do I get those last two screws on the handlebar side of the air box cover?
I can't even fit the socket alone in there! Do I need to take out the voltage regulator?
It doesn't even look to be enough room without that there.
Oh yes - aren't they wonderful. The one on the left is actually fairly accessible - I think I wedged a low profile ratchet in there (one of those small things that have a 1/4" notch - they cost about $8.00 (https://www.amazon.com/Neiko-03044A-...+1%2F4+ratchet).

The other side has an additional metal tang that really blocks most things. I moved all the cabling etc that's around that tang, out of the way As I remember I managed to get a really long 1/4" tang torks bit mated to my low profile handle (or a vice grip -can't remember) - wedged in the socket. By putting a lot of pressure on it I could turn it a tiny bit at a time until loosened. The length of the driver - 6" +- helped lessen the angle somewhat so it would bite.

When reassembling I used a different screw in that location because it strips out a little. By rotating the screws, and changing the filter every 20K miles - I'll be OK for a long long time.

It is absurd.
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Old September 9th, 2017, 10:47 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by philthymike View Post
How the F**K do I get those last two screws on the handlebar side of the air box cover?
I can't even fit the socket alone in there! Do I need to take out the voltage regulator?
It doesn't even look to be enough room without that there.
I think I did remove the regulator, but you don't need to.

I used a 1/4" torx bit and a 1/4" box end wrench on the shank of the bit, turning 1/4 turn at a time.... Really annoying. I recall figuring out an easier way with some extensions and u-joints.
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Old September 9th, 2017, 02:40 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by appliance821 View Post
Oh yes - aren't they wonderful. The one on the left is actually fairly accessible - I think I wedged a low profile ratchet in there (one of those small things that have a 1/4" notch - they cost about $8.00 (https://www.amazon.com/Neiko-03044A-...+1%2F4+ratchet).

The other side has an additional metal tang that really blocks most things. I moved all the cabling etc that's around that tang, out of the way As I remember I managed to get a really long 1/4" tang torks bit mated to my low profile handle (or a vice grip -can't remember) - wedged in the socket. By putting a lot of pressure on it I could turn it a tiny bit at a time until loosened. The length of the driver - 6" +- helped lessen the angle somewhat so it would bite.

When reassembling I used a different screw in that location because it strips out a little. By rotating the screws, and changing the filter every 20K miles - I'll be OK for a long long time.

It is absurd.
i went to the hardware store and got a regular screwdriver with a star drive type head. I could get the left side one off with that. The angle was too great on the right side. Then I discovered the regulator just slides out of its mounts. Back to the 1/4" socket and I had it. So what if I have a 5 piece torx screwdriver set now, it might come in handy one day. useful for when a socket isn't practical I guess.
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Old September 9th, 2017, 02:48 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kuksul08 View Post
I think I did remove the regulator, but you don't need to.

I used a 1/4" torx bit and a 1/4" box end wrench on the shank of the bit, turning 1/4 turn at a time.... Really annoying. I recall figuring out an easier way with some extensions and u-joints.
I tried without removing the regulator but the right side screw was still impossible to reach. Luckily the regulator just slides right out! Easy peasy Japanesey.

So it's all back together now. What a journey. Then when I moved the bike I discovered a large thick fender washer on the ground. It's aluminum. I don't remember seeing it anywhere while disassembling. Where the heck did it come from?

Anyways the bike runs good. Throttle response is much improved both at low speeds and high. I can blip it without it choking. Engine not as rough but still a little bit. I will change the oil and filter next. That ought to help.

The old filter was brown. And it had a crapload of loose stuff in there including a bee. As I feared that silicate crap from the new pipeline was all in there as well as coal dust from my ride in the mountains. That crap is highly abrasive too.
I'm sure the silicate doesn't do an engine any good either.

When I went out to the hardware store I rode the little Suzuki Savage and guess what? It's gonna need a starter soon. Hell of a time getting it to start on the way home.
I've got my hands full with bike issues now.

Last edited by philthymike; September 9th, 2017 at 03:01 PM.
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Old September 9th, 2017, 02:54 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by philthymike View Post
I tried without removing the regulator but the right side screw was still impossible to reach. Luckily the regulator just slides right out! Easy peasy Japanesey.

So it's all back together now. What a journey. Then when I moved the bike I discovered a large thick fender washer on the ground. It's aluminum. I don't remember seeing it anywhere while disassembling. Where the heck did it come from?

Anyways the bike runs good. Throttle response is much improved both at low speeds and high. I can blip it without it choking. Engine not as rough but still a little bit. I will change the oil and filter next. That ought to help.

The old filter was brown. And it had a crapload of loose stuff in there including a bee. As I feared that silicate crap from the new pipeline was all in there as well as coal dust from my ride in the mountains. That crap is highly abrasive too.
I'm sure the silicate doesn't do an engine any good either.
Washer goes underneath the fuel tank under that big shoulder bolt on the bottom.
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