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Old December 5th, 2017, 04:53 AM   #11
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My hyper rear brake has not failed completely, but it is odd. I have to press it pretty far before it engages. There is not enough adjustment range to get a normal pedal.

That said, my ktms always lost rear brake after sitting a long tim. Can't explain it.

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Old May 21st, 2018, 04:08 PM   #12
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I'm pulling this one up, as I've had the same problem. The front requires one or two pumps before they're at full pressure, and the back is mush until the very bottom. This is after multiple bleedings. The pads are good, so I'm not sure what else it could be.
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Old May 21st, 2018, 06:00 PM   #13
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For the front, that's kinda common with the stock master cylinder. Having moved to an SP with a radial cylinder I can vouch for a much better braking experience. As for the rear, dunno, I recall reading something about needing to remove the master cylinder in order to be able to position it properly to bleed and let air bubbles escape but I never had a problem with mine on my 2015 hyper.
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Old May 21st, 2018, 08:22 PM   #14
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Here's a system that works. I think the problem is air/moisture/old fluid in the ABS system and you can't bleed it out just through a normal bleed. ( I have speed bleeders that make this a lot easier.)

Pull the calipers and get something the thickness appx. of the calipers to shim between the pads.

After they're pulled open the bleed valve on one and push the calipers apart. Close valve, put the shims in (on both sides!) and squeeze them while feeding fluid into the master cylinder. When tight on the shim bleed until no bubbles. Do this on the other side.

Now you have clean fresh fluid in the calipers.

Now, push the pads on one caliper apart and suck fluid out of the master cylinder.

You just forced fresh clean fluid through the ABS system. If you just pry the calipers apart without first bleeding them as described in the first part, you're just forcing crap through the ABS circuit.

Fill and bleed - do it on the other caliper.

Bolt calipers on again.

FYI: Getting the calipers apart during this process takes some force. A spreader or a screw driver on old pads will do the trick. Front and rear you use nearly one small bottle of fluid.

The results are solid - though after 2 months the rear seem a little weaker - could be my imagination. Fronts are the best they've ever been..
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Old May 21st, 2018, 11:31 PM   #15
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Whoa, whoa. Before attempting bleed job, you can adjust the throw. I had to do that pretty early into my ownership.

I also had to bleed my rear eventually. And, I, like many on this site, wanted to put .50 cal slugs through it after days of bloody knuckles trying to get the damn thing right.

Please search. Extensive rear brake servicing thread.
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Old May 22nd, 2018, 12:22 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AJsarge View Post
I'm pulling this one up, as I've had the same problem. The front requires one or two pumps before they're at full pressure, and the back is mush until the very bottom. This is after multiple bleedings. The pads are good, so I'm not sure what else it could be.
For the rear brake, you need to remove the caliper and position it so the bleed nipple is at the top to do the job properly. If you did that and you're still having a problem, something else is going on.
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Old May 22nd, 2018, 12:46 PM   #17
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Another thing is the link line between the two front calipers. In order to properly bleed the front you need to dangle them just so to get any air bubbles out of that piece.

My bike (and other bikes with ABS I've ridden) sometimes need a double or 1.5 pump in front to get a really firm lever. A downside of having so much volume and distance of brake lines. The rear brake has always been solid from day 1, so definitely check into that caliper bleeding by flipping it upside down.
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Old May 22nd, 2018, 01:29 PM   #18
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Originally Posted by kuksul08 View Post
Another thing is the link line between the two front calipers. In order to properly bleed the front you need to dangle them just so to get any air bubbles out of that piece.

My bike (and other bikes with ABS I've ridden) sometimes need a double or 1.5 pump in front to get a really firm lever. A downside of having so much volume and distance of brake lines. The rear brake has always been solid from day 1, so definitely check into that caliper bleeding by flipping it upside down.
this makes a lot of sense to me now. My Hyper is my first experience with an ABS bike and I was comparing it to my older monster as far as brake feel. I upgraded the front pads this weekend and bled the hell out of the front brakes and was scratching my head why it still took a couple of pumps to get a firm lever. my conclusion was because of the ABS. thanks for confirming
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Old May 22nd, 2018, 03:36 PM   #19
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The procedure I outlined is similar to that in the ducati manual with the caveat of first filling the calipers with fresh air free fluid. It doesn't take long and uses about 3.5 oz of fluid.

I did it over the winter, the bike sat for 2 months and I've been riding it for about a month - no double pump and a nicely firm lever. If this changes I'll update, but it's the best bleed I've gotten yet.
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