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Old December 1st, 2017, 08:20 PM   #1
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Where'd my rear brake go?

So today it dawned on me that the rear brake is no longer doing anything. The pedal goes down really far now too. I always put the brakes on together and for that reason didn't really notice anything wrong with the back. I was stopped on a downhill and tried using the rear brake by itself and to my surprise I rolled as though I hadn't applied the brake at all. It's definitely gone.
Is it the pads? The fluid is at the halfway mark on the reservoir...
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Old December 1st, 2017, 10:03 PM   #2
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could have got some air in there. try flipping the caliper and bleeding it.
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Old December 2nd, 2017, 12:36 PM   #3
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What do you mean by "flipping" the caliper?

I went through a rear brake problem on my '13 Strada. Bought the bike used at 19K miles. Dealer had it priced too high, so it sat for about 4 months with NO activity. When I test rode it ... it had NO rear brake.

The dealer said it "just needed bleeding"! We negotiated a deal. I brought the bike in to have the rear brake bled. But repeated bleeding did not solve the problem. They had no solution at that time.

They ended up installing a whole new Master cylinder. There is more to this as the apprentice mechanic screwed up the install causing further delays/complications. (did not cost me anything)

My theory (and of the master mechanic at the dealer) is that this bike does not like to sit around unused ... and in doing so, somehow the rear brake system either gets AIR in it ... or somehow things get screwed up.

On my bike now, it takes some HEAT and USE to get the rear brake working right ... and feeling right.

IMO, some serious design deficiencies here. After all, my system is ALL NEW, yet it still does not behave properly if the bike has sat for a couple weeks unused. With everyday use ... it's FINE.

Any ideas or theories on this? How can this be PERMANENTLY corrected?
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Old December 2nd, 2017, 01:31 PM   #4
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Do check the pads. The caliper has a little ledge built into it to keep from pushing the pad backing plate into the rotors when the pads are almost fully used up.
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Old December 2nd, 2017, 01:46 PM   #5
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Others have posted that if you bleed the brakes without following the factory procedure of removing the caliper and positioning it so the bleed nipple is at the top you'll never get it bled properly. When it was time for a fluid flush I took the extra time to do it right and it was fine after bleeding. Maybe the techs working on it weren't following the correct procedure.
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Old December 2nd, 2017, 01:55 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pacaver View Post
Others have posted that if you bleed the brakes without following the factory procedure of removing the caliper and positioning it so the bleed nipple is at the top you'll never get it bled properly. When it was time for a fluid flush I took the extra time to do it right and it was fine after bleeding. Maybe the techs working on it weren't following the correct procedure.
Thanks much for that tip! I will remind them of this next time in. I know the Master Mechanic knows correct method, but the other mechs? Maybe not.
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Old December 3rd, 2017, 07:54 AM   #7
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So I just need to bleed the brake?

I don't understand a brake ceasing to work because the bike has sat for a few weeks. How did they f**k up so badly to make this possible? It's 2017 and we've had hydraulic disc brakes on motorcycles since 1969 and Ducati managed to screw this up? How is that even possible?

My car sits for months at a time unused and its brakes don't stop working....
Same for my Suzuki...
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Old December 4th, 2017, 08:03 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by philthymike View Post
So I just need to bleed the brake?

I don't understand a brake ceasing to work because the bike has sat for a few weeks. How did they f**k up so badly to make this possible? It's 2017 and we've had hydraulic disc brakes on motorcycles since 1969 and Ducati managed to screw this up? How is that even possible?

My car sits for months at a time unused and its brakes don't stop working....
Same for my Suzuki...
Your car brakes done get nearly as hot as the bikes. I have had to replace master cylinders and caliper due to moisture getting into the brake fluid and oxidizing the inner piston surfaces. I have had success with just rebuilding master and caller as well but if it has corroded the cylinder wall then it won't last. It will chew up the new seals and you will be back to square 1. One thing i dont understand fully is the inner working of the ABS unit. That might be the issue too. I assume that it allows pressure to build but once one wheel spins different than the other the pump alters the pressure. Maby the pump is stuck in the position of not allowing pressure, I don't know, that is a guess.
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Old December 4th, 2017, 08:09 AM   #9
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If you look into the piston cylinder wall on this one you will see corrosion caused by moisture and sitting. Ine of my Beringer ($500 piece of junk in my opinion) master cylinder that had the same issue.
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Where'd my rear brake go?-20171204_110647.jpg  
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Old December 4th, 2017, 06:37 PM   #10
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Originally Posted by Araitim View Post
Your car brakes done get nearly as hot as the bikes. I have had to replace master cylinders and caliper due to moisture getting into the brake fluid and oxidizing the inner piston surfaces. I have had success with just rebuilding master and caller as well but if it has corroded the cylinder wall then it won't last. It will chew up the new seals and you will be back to square 1. One thing i dont understand fully is the inner working of the ABS unit. That might be the issue too. I assume that it allows pressure to build but once one wheel spins different than the other the pump alters the pressure. Maby the pump is stuck in the position of not allowing pressure, I don't know, that is a guess.
That's a good point about the ABS. The HS is the 1st vehicle I've owned that had it. I imagine any number of things can go wrong with it. Maybe I should disable it and see if my brake starts working again....
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