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Old July 2nd, 2018, 09:37 AM   #11
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I've been thinking about dropping the tree. I remember really liking the results on my R6, but that was many years ago on a much different frame. I'm just worried this bike is so geometry sensitive that I'll throw it severely out of whack.
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Old July 2nd, 2018, 10:37 AM   #12
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always stable up to the max speed of 145
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Old July 2nd, 2018, 10:41 AM   #13
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Give it a shot, I played with fork height and it does make a difference. Eventually I settled on stock as a good balance of stability and flickability.

The only bike I've ridden with a damper is my XR and it's incredibly stable, but also very strange to muscle around a parking lot where lots of steering movement is required.
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Old July 2nd, 2018, 10:56 AM   #14
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can't you adjust dampening on the fly?
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Old July 2nd, 2018, 06:25 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kuksul08 View Post
The only bike I've ridden with a damper is my XR and it's incredibly stable, but also very strange to muscle around a parking lot where lots of steering movement is required.
Yeh, I've managed to get an R1100S to shake at the track which ran right off the track (I wasn't in control). Hitting the grass broke the oscillation and I was able to ease back onto the track but several positions down. I had a steering damper BUT had turned it all the way down because it was a PITA to turn at lower speeds and forgot to turn it back up on my track day. Learned my lesson and turned it back up and didn't have another problem the rest of the day...passing R1s with a boxer is FUN...
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Old July 12th, 2018, 12:57 AM   #16
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Installed and freight train steady above 90 now.
*NOTE: For those that install the Ducabike damper mount (or probably any other mounts out there), the ignition cover bolts are theft deterrent and not easy to remove. I guess they have bolt heads that shear off or are removed from factory. You'll have to use vice grips or a stud puller to free them and there's not a lot of room to swing tools. You'll most likely ruin the threads doing this as it's the only non-polished surface to grip. So, better be good with those vice grips because you're not getting the cap nuts back on after the first attempt.
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Old July 17th, 2018, 12:29 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kdub View Post
Squirrelly...that's how I'd describe my 2013 HS, I always felt this was from the fork angle, which is what makes the thing so nimble, I also have a Triumph 1050 Tiger (2008) which feel like its on rails at 220 kph (I still had many revs to redline), road snakes and pavement discontinuities un-noticable, the HS at speed was "squirrelly" on same road...UNTIL I added the steering damper, same as you have ordered.
My HS is now "on-rails" while still being nimble. Far more "confidence" inspiring, on rougher or gravel fireroads, at any speed.

Adding the damper has had the biggest impact on any bike I own, except maybe for the Brembos I put on my Harley Sporster.
Kdub, assuming you have the Ducabike mount. The swivel bracket that mounts the damper to the ignition stock has quite a bit of jiggle/ play in it. Everything is dogged down and secure, just the shoulder mount has a lot of wiggle. Thing works but doesn't seam right. I used one of the o-rings at that connection and pretty sure the correct length screw. Does not help that the directions were two 80's-era dot matrix photos on a bar napkin...
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Old July 17th, 2018, 03:20 PM   #18
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My XR uses a big foam bushing underneath the joint to keep it from slapping. It can also be soaked with some oil to keep the joint lubricated. Might be worth a shot to keep it from bouncing around?

https://cdn1.bikebandit-images.com/s...0216019062.gif
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Old July 17th, 2018, 03:33 PM   #19
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Interesting. Works great, just don't like the slop. Like I said, install sheet was awful and practically nill besides installed photos on the web.
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Old July 18th, 2018, 05:53 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kuksul08 View Post
...uses a big foam bushing underneath the joint to keep it from slapping...

+1 This is something I've done as well and had on one of my R1100S dampers, it works...
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