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Old July 25th, 2018, 02:26 AM   #1
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I Ride: 2013 White Strada
Drivetrain Torque Specs

Strada Peeps,

Wondering if any of you shop manual owners can help me out with some drivetrain torque specs. I'm swapping the chain & sprockets.

-Front sprocket nut:
-Front sprocket retainer:
-Rear axle nut inner:
-Rear axle nut outer:
-Rear sprocket hub:

Thanks in advance!
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Old July 25th, 2018, 07:57 AM   #2
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I Ride: 16' HyperStrada, 97' 900ss CR, 78' CB550K
Hi gat this is what I could find in the 2013 Hyperstrada workshop manual:

Refitting the front sprocket
Refit the ring (8).
Grease the O-ring (7), and install it on the front sprocket spacer (6).
Fit the spacer, from the O-ring side, on the secondary shaft and drive it fully home against the inner ring of the bearing.
Before refitting the front sprocket, check that the spacer (6) is installed on the gearbox secondary shaft.

Check that the splines of the gearbox secondary shaft and the sprocket are in perfect condition.
Fit the front sprocket (5) on the gearbox secondary shaft, orienting it as shown. Fit lockwasher (4).
After having applied the recommended threadlocker, tighten the nut (3) to a torque of 186 Nm 5%.
Bend the washer (4) over the nut.


Refitting the rear sprocket
Check the cush drive dampers (7) condition and, if necessary, replace them by removing them from the flange.
Refitting is the reverse of removal.
Apply the recommended grease to the outer diameter of rear sprocket holder flange (4).
Fit rear sprocket flange (4) onto rear sprocket (5), engaging cush drive damper pins (7).
Apply recommended threadlocker to the nut thread (8).
Start nuts on cush drive damper pins threaded end (7).
Tighten the nuts (8) to a torque of 48 Nm 10%, following a cross pattern.

Refitting the rear wheel
Lubricate the wheel shaft threaded end with recommended grease.
Fit wheel on the shaft, matching (A) with shafts (B).

Fit the spacer (4) with the tapered side facing the wheel, and washer (3); apply the recommended grease to the nut (2) and start nut (2) by hand.
Tighten the nut (1) to a torque of 230 Nm 10%, checking that the hole on the nut is aligned with one of those on the wheel shaft.
Fit the clip (1), fitting the end into one of the holes in the shaft, orienting it as shown in the figure.

I hope this helps and that it didn't unnecessarily confuse things!
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Old July 25th, 2018, 09:28 AM   #3
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That's perfect. I've watched enough video's that this makes sense.

Think just bearing grease will be fine?
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Old July 25th, 2018, 06:59 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gatdammit View Post
That's perfect. I've watched enough video's that this makes sense.

Think just bearing grease will be fine?
On the pic accompanying "Grease the O-ring (7)" the image has a motor-oil symbol.

On the following two pics, which illustrate the front sprocket, the images have a grease symbol with a large letter B.

In the manual that symbol refers to:

GREASE B
Molybdenum disulphide grease, high mechanical stress and high temperature resistant.
ex: SHELL Retinax HDX2

Grease B symbol is also repeated on the rear sprocket image and refitting the rear wheel images.

Last edited by Tron; July 25th, 2018 at 07:01 PM.
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Old July 26th, 2018, 01:04 AM   #5
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Perfect. Thank you very much, Tron. Have you been on the game grid in a while? Who is your user?
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Old July 27th, 2018, 05:42 AM   #6
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Bruce Boxleitner of course!
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Old July 27th, 2018, 08:37 PM   #7
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There's no need to take off the rear wheel. But if you do, the torque on the nut is 175nm NOT 230.

Molybdenum grease is used for a lot of these nuts - probably yamalube will do the trick.

It would be a good idea to get a new o-ring for the front sprocket, and maybe a new washer.

You will have to take off the rear foot peg mount and delink the shifter to get the front sprocket out. Seriously consider an impact wrench for the front sprocket nut.

To tighten the cush drives you have to get a 12mm ( as I remember) allan socket in the rear of the cush and then tighten the nuts. It's a crude stamping, but it is for an allan wrench. A clamp may come in handy.

They are a friction fit, and as you tighten them they expand to hold in place. the nuts have a slightly oval opening, which is a type of thread locking design. I thought they were damaged, but google was my friend.
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Old July 28th, 2018, 08:20 AM   #8
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I Ride: 16' HyperStrada, 97' 900ss CR, 78' CB550K
Hi:

Just to clarify the discrepancy between what appliance and I are telling you.

The workshop manual calls for 230nM which is the equivalent of 170 ft-lbs.

I've attached a screenshot of the manual page I am referring to.

I want to ensure that GAT has the correct info
Attached Thumbnails
Drivetrain Torque Specs-screen-shot-2018-07-28-12.14.27-pm.jpg  
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Old July 28th, 2018, 08:30 AM   #9
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Here is a link to an enlarged version of the pic in my previous post

CLICK ME

Last edited by Tron; July 28th, 2018 at 08:32 AM.
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Old July 28th, 2018, 03:43 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tron View Post
Hi:

Just to clarify the discrepancy between what appliance and I are telling you.

The workshop manual calls for 230nM which is the equivalent of 170 ft-lbs.

I've attached a screenshot of the manual page I am referring to.

I want to ensure that GAT has the correct info
I have the workshop manual and it uses 2 different specs. The correct spec is 176nm - this is the listing under torque specs, has been long discussed, and it is the correct spec. It really is.

"Fastener retaining wheel shaft on rim side (right)" "M38x1.5" "176*" "GREASE B"
"" "" "" ""

Last edited by appliance821; July 28th, 2018 at 03:50 PM.
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