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Old March 14th, 2019, 03:26 PM   #11
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From: Lansing Mi
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I Ride: 2013 hypermotard/hyperstrada, 2005 zx6r, drz125, crf50 crf70
I just removed my stator cover as well for the starter motor install. I had the same spacer fall out as you gatdammit. Could you show me a pic with a mark showing where it goes back on? Im guessing it goes on the gear rod thats on the starter motor as I found it below that.

My spacer fell out too. Here are a few pics
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DIY:  Hydraulic Clutch Swap-smartselect_20190314-184934_hancom-office-editor.jpg   DIY:  Hydraulic Clutch Swap-smartselect_20190314-184945_hancom-office-editor.jpg   DIY:  Hydraulic Clutch Swap-screenshot_20190314-185945_chrome.jpg   DIY:  Hydraulic Clutch Swap-smartselect_20190314-190008_chrome.jpg  
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Old March 14th, 2019, 08:06 PM   #12
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I Ride: 2014 Hypermotard 821 / 2010 Streetfighter 1098S / 2018 Honda CBR 250RR
Great thanks. I didnt have the 2nd picture. I didnt know you can simply just pull the gear out like that so easily. Im guessing when the cover is on and bolted down thats what holds it in place and tightenes it up?
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Old March 15th, 2019, 12:42 AM   #13
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The DIY should be amended. I don't know if you can actually prevent that guide pin from coming off with the cover, but if you know to be looking for it when cracking it, might prevent a lot of heartburn. My gear actually didn't move until I was trying to put the cover back on, which is why I was so confused.
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Old March 18th, 2019, 03:09 PM   #14
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I Ride: 2014 Hypermotard 821 / 2010 Streetfighter 1098S / 2018 Honda CBR 250RR
So I got the starter motor all replaced. Im working on finishing the ducabike clutch now. I got it all together with the ball bearing in the clutch slave. I have bled the clutch system multi times but the lever pressure is still weak. It seems to not be able to get enough pressure to actuate the clutch fully. Im testing this by putting the bike in gear and then pulling in the clutch and try rotating the wheel to see if it will move but it doesnt. Like its still stuck in gear because the clutch isnt being pushed out far enough. Any ideas? You can see how far its being pushed out in this video.
https://youtu.be/QqMGkGyWL_E
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Old March 18th, 2019, 10:54 PM   #15
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Bleeding took a while for me. First I had a very slight leak at the lever fitting. So dog down both fittings. After I got the system isolated, it took a lot of pumps before I started getting fluid threw the bleeder. Just don't let the sump go dry.
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Old March 19th, 2019, 11:31 AM   #16
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I Ride: 2013 hypermotard/hyperstrada, 2005 zx6r, drz125, crf50 crf70
An easy thing to overlook when bleeding is adjusting the lever all the way out. Make sure the lever is adjusted out as far as possible. This will allow for more movement of air/fluid and give a complete bleed.
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Old March 19th, 2019, 01:37 PM   #17
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I Ride: 2014 Hypermotard 821 / 2010 Streetfighter 1098S / 2018 Honda CBR 250RR
Thanks guys. That is actually what happened.
This time I took the time to do a gravity bleed. And readjusted the lever out. It seems to fully push the clutch out now. Also, another reason why I thought there wasn't enough pressure was because of how light the clutch feels! I see 1 finger shifts in my future now which is awesome. My starter motor and clutch are now done. Next Ill be changing my belts. I wanted to test to see if the stater motor install went ok so I started cranking the engine over with the engine turning tool and everything seems to be rotating fine so I think it went well. I found a cut in my thermostat radiator hose and it was slowly leaking coolant. Glad I have been going over the bike with a fine tooth comb or I would have never noticed it. Just waiting on my suspension to get back from the shop and the samco hoses to be delivered and then hopefully I can get back on and give her a test ride before my big spring 1000km tour shes been in pieces for 3 months now

Last edited by saken; March 19th, 2019 at 08:03 PM.
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