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Old March 11th, 2019, 12:20 PM   #1
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From: Naples, IT
Posts: 2,195

I Ride: 2013 White Strada
DIY: Hydraulic Clutch Swap

*DISCLAIMER* I used all Ducabike (DB) parts for this install. They are not
cheap. They do sell the most complete kits and look fantastic. Quality is
superb. User Araitim went a much more affordable route and you can
contact him for details.

Before you begin:
- The OEM system pulls the pressure plate to actuate the clutch. Hyd system
pushes the pressure plate via a rod/ slave cylinder. This means lots of new
parts or lots of modifying the OEM stuff.
- While you can use the OEM clutch cover, it will take some machining.
You'll have to remove the manual clutch actuator arm (spring loaded pin that
resides in the blistered groove that bitter end of clutch cable attaches to)
and you will need to plug that hole.
- The OEM pressure plate has a pin in the center of it with an extractor
cap. This cap connects to the actuator arm that pulls the pressure plate in
the OEM mechanical form. You can use the OEM pin but the extractor cap must
be removed.
- The DB kits listed will save you from the above machining needs.
- DB sells a mechanical slave servo (AFM01) that uses the hyd push rod
setup. I guess you could keep existing clutch lever and route the cable to
this slave, but the cable would need to shortened and I have no idea if it
would affect the functionality.
- I included the anti-judder spring kit. I'm sure the system would have
been dramatically better than stock if I didn't add this, but it works very
well with it, is affordable, and you'll be taking the clutch pack out
anyway.
- Purchased all my parts from www.hsbkracing.com; fantastic customer service
- The DB/ Brembo lever/ reservoir I'm using is not compatible with OEM
levers. So, if you have fancy aftermarket shorty levers - like I did -
can't keep it. The lever in the kit I list is a full size stocker-type, and
I haven't had the time to find optional levers.

What you will need (all DB parts unless noted otherwise):
- AF02: 30mm Carbon Inlay Clutch Slave Cylinder
- AFI02: Hydraulic Clutch Conversion Kit *Has servo mounting hardware and
clutch actuator pin w/o OEM puller cap (read above)
- CCDV04SM: Wet Clutch Pressure Plate (can use OEM; read above)
- CCDV03SM: Wet Clutch Spring Retainer (can use OEM; read above)
- CCDV02: Ducati Wet Clutch Easy Access See Through Clutch Cover Kit
- 1 Pint of DOT 4 Brake Fluid (more if you're really clumsy)
- ThreeBond or preferred gasket sealant
- Metric hex head set
- Gasket scraping tools
- Pry bar and dead blow to remove OEM clutch cover
- Gotta drain the oil, so keep the old stuff or replace it

Optional:
- CP03: Sprocket Cover (believe it's actually for the Monster but it's the
one you need) *I cut my stock cover with a jigsaw to fit around the slave
- Clutch Fix: Clutch Fix DIY
- SLI01: Wet Clutch Clear Clutch Cover Billet Slider (added protection)

Basic steps (the 2 videos I'll link will fill in the holes):
*Be mindful that brake fluid is highly corrosive and will ruin painted surfaces. Protect the parts you care about accordingly.
1. Center stand or paddock stand
2. Put her in 6th gear (re: Clutch Fix DIY)
3. Drain oil
4. Disconnect battery and remove side and lower fairings
5. Remove clutch cable and old clutch lever. Leave clutch sensor wire in place as you'll need to run a new one later. You'll have to undo some zipties and cable stays. New line routes down left side so don't get ahead of yourself.
6. Remove rear brake lever. Mind the o-rings.
7. Remove clutch case cover. After the bolts are out, there's two service tabs on either side of the case. Wedge a pry bar on a tab and wack the other side of the case with a dead blow or rubber mallet. I wasn't using this again so I wasn't too concerned with marking it up. You may need a block of wood so you don't pry against something important. Swap sides and repeat. It will eventually crack and it takes a slight clockwise twist as it comes off to clear the upper manifold. The DB clear case is much easier to install. You'll need the OEM oil filler plug.
8. Remove old gasket from case. I used a wire brush and brake cleaner. Just be sure to clean as much as the gasket shavings out of the inner case as you can.
9. Remove clutch basket. Regardless if your using OEM method, you'll need to swap the actuator pin, requiring you to remove the clutch basket. Insert service bolts (included with kit) - not too tight as they are very small diameter. Remove spring retainer. Remove springs. Remove pressure plate.
10. Install new or modified actuator pin. The video explains this. A vice or press helps but you can manage with hammer. It can be very difficult lining the bearing up flush in the pressure plate, so check alignment carefully.
11. Remove sprocket cover. Remove plastic dong-thing under cover that plugs the actuator rod port.
12. Install clutch basket. If you installed judder spring kit, be sure to remove a set of drive/ driven plates. Think there should only be 21 total plates, not including the judder springs. I offset the last plate like video shows.
13. Insert clutch actuator rod through center hole from clutch side to sprocket side. Insert with rubber o-rings towards sprocket side. I used a little chain lube on the rod...giggity.
14. Insert pressure plate, springs and spring retainer. **DO NOT INSERT BALL BEARING BETWEEN PRESSURE PLATE AND ACTUATOR ROD AS SHOWN IN VIDEO**. Remove service pins.
15. Reinstall clutch cover and rear brake. Recommend practicing a few times before applying gasket maker. Let it dry overnight before adding oil.
16. Prime slave cylinder. Insert ONE ball bearing in the slave piston and mount. It might not flush up against the mounting pad and if you force it, brake fluid will squirt out. You can connect the clutch line before securing the bolts but be sure to eyeball the line as the banjo lines are angled and you need the correct sides routed between lever and slave. The slave should get the fitting with the bleeder on it. Reinstall sprocket cover.
17. Run the clutch line. You'll need to bundle it with the clip-on bundle through the triple tree access. I just ran it down the frame and looped it high and above the sprocket.
18. Remove front fairing/lamp and expose main wiring looms behind dash display. Trace old clutch sensor and find connector under large rubber sock, mine was in the bundle closest to clutch. Role the sock down and swap new clutch sensor lead. Fish back through frame to clip-on. I'd leave the front fairing open until you know it works because this is a PITA process.
19. Mount the new clutch lever. Be sure to test fit the handguard as my clearance was very tight. I had just enough room between mirror/ handguard mount and clutch actuation clearing the hand control cluster.
20. Fill and bleed clutch. Be sure to put something under the reservoir as you'll most likely spill some brake fluid.
21. If the case is dry and it's not leaking oil, fire her up on the stand and check function. Should just work, no adjustment. I first tried with no ball bearings because the videos and online research was conflicting. It didn't disengage completely. Installed a bearing in the slave and worked 4.0

Highly recommend watching these videos and reading the maintenance manual. I couldn't remember torque spec's, but all the clutch innards are 5/ 10 lbs. Again, don't install the pressure plate side bearing. You don't want to crack the case for something so trivial. Think I had 3 bearings total for random applications.

821 Hyd Clutch & Clear Cover

Clutch Swap





Cheers and Good Luck!
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Old March 11th, 2019, 02:37 PM   #2
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From: Lansing Mi
Posts: 223

I Ride: 2013 hypermotard/hyperstrada, 2005 zx6r, drz125, crf50 crf70
Very nice write up. Good detail too. I want one of them clear covers really bad now. Your bike looks fantastic.
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Old March 11th, 2019, 09:53 PM   #3
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Thanks, bro. Now I just gotta go see what's broken after the wind blew her over last night...
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Old March 13th, 2019, 08:33 PM   #4
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I Ride: 2014 Hypermotard 821 / 2010 Streetfighter 1098S / 2018 Honda CBR 250RR
Thanks for this. Im in the middle of the install right now. Ive video recorded most of the install process but itll be awhile before its edited. I was actually told by ducabike to use the ball bearing in the clutch plate pin, but not in the clutch slave. After I read your post I thought about it more. So basically, they do provide 3 ball bearings. 2 for the install and 1 for extra. I initally tested fitted with 2 ball bearings and it made the clutch rod too long to install the clutch slave. So your right you definately only need 1 ball bearing for the install. If you remember, the end of the clutch rod was flat on the clutch plate side, and rounded on the clutch slave side. Looking into the clutch slave hole, you can see its rounded inside. Basically the shape of the rounded end of the clutch rod. I dont think it matters, or if it does please let me know, but wouldnt be better to use the ball bearing in the clutch plate side? As the rounded end of the clutch rod fits nicely into the clutch slave? If you put the bearing in the clutch slave,the bearing would be flush against the rounded rod end like this, ==) (=). But if the bearing was put in the clutch plate, the bearing would be flush against the flat end of the clutch rod like this, (=) |====

I would imagine both are fine?
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Old March 14th, 2019, 12:54 AM   #5
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Saken, it's a very good observation and one I spent a couple nights considering while I waited for parts. My fear was that I wouldn't be able to fish the pressure plate bearing out if it was a mistake. I had already disassembled my entire clutch 3 times (I nuked my OEM judder fix attempt and pulled the DB setup an additional time because I was uncertain about a step). I read a lot of other model 821 threads with these mods and the consensus was one bearing, slave side, probably because they tried it with no bearing first like I did. Also, in the 1st video link, you can see the guy installs a bearing on both ends of his Monster build, which absolutely wouldn't work. I figured he hosed up on the pressure plate side and didn't try to edit.

You should try the pressure plate side. Does make more sense. You can remove the slave without affecting the system. But, unless you have a very narrow magnet fisher (they made not even be ferrous), you'll have to pull the pressure plate to remove. I'll edit the post if it works. I might attempt this weekend.

Last edited by gatdammit; March 14th, 2019 at 12:58 AM.
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Old March 14th, 2019, 02:57 AM   #6
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I Ride: 2013 hypermotard/hyperstrada, 2005 zx6r, drz125, crf50 crf70
If you put the bearing on the clutch side and you ever have to pull that rod out it will for sure drop into the clutch. Everything I have ever seen was to use the bearing on the slave side. But everything I have seen that needed the bearing was on the older bikes. I wonder why the kit requires them. Looking at the parts microfiche on the bikes that come with the hydraulic clutch(that share the same 11 case)show no bearings at all. I wonder why the kit sells a rod that is so short. Can either of you measure the rod? Also, how far does the rod go into the button on the clutch side? Does it look like it is flush with the top plate?
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Old March 14th, 2019, 04:04 AM   #7
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So when I bought the mechanical slave kit on accident, it was made for HM 821 and the rod was about 15mm shorter than the rod that came with clutch kit (lever, line, rod). I test fit both and judging by the video's, I went with longer rod. The directions reference multiple applications - the MS 1260 gets both bearings. Think its just a universal application.

Good point about it dropping into the basket if you pulled the rod. I don't love the idea of the bearing rubbing on the convex shaft end, but I can get another rod and I have a couple bearings left. I would say you could make your own rod cut to length, just need to mill the o-ring grooves. It's just a piece of steel.
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Old March 14th, 2019, 10:20 AM   #8
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I Ride: 2013 hypermotard/hyperstrada, 2005 zx6r, drz125, crf50 crf70
When I was piecing together a system I ordered the panigale rod. It was alot longer than the other ones. Also there are some that have the anti rotational pin in them. I would he comfortable with the rod pushing on the bearing. The rod is really hard. The small friction zone created between the rod and bearing will definitely prevent the slave from spinning internally. You have both the mechanical and hydraulic slave cylinders?
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Old March 14th, 2019, 11:07 AM   #9
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Sent the mechanical back. Wasn't going this far to still use a cable.

I'll also note that my stock setup use to paddle/ vibrate the foot lever pretty bad when I was shifting. If I didn't forcibly put my toe into an upshift, it would ratchet trying to find the cog, worse in the lower gears. Gone. Very smooth shifts. This could be the judder kit helping.
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Old March 14th, 2019, 01:38 PM   #10
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I Ride: 2014 Hypermotard 821 / 2010 Streetfighter 1098S / 2018 Honda CBR 250RR
Ill measure my rod as its not all put together yet. I tried getting the ball bearing out with my long magnetic tool through the rod hole from the slave side and it wouldnt pull the bearing out. I think it would if the magnet was stronger. So I guess ill take my bearing out of the clutch pin as well and put it in the slave. It does make for easier maintenance. I just removed my stator cover as well for the starter motor install. I had the same spacer fall out as you gatdammit. Could you show me a pic with a mark showing where it goes back on? Im guessing it goes on the gear rod thats on the starter motor as I found it below that. And mine looks like it so loose.?



https://i.ibb.co/bWN5ZcZ/IMG-0237.jpg

Last edited by saken; March 14th, 2019 at 01:42 PM.
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