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Old July 18th, 2019, 05:36 PM   #31
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Originally Posted by BadToTheBown View Post
Never had so many electrical issues with a bike, now my tail light is out but the brake like works, found a blown 10A fuse but didn't matter to the light, need to look harder...
The front fuse panel 10amp fuse is the lights fuse (or the instrument panel - but that's ok right?). The wiring from the tail light is fairly easy to trace - -can't remember but it runs through a grommet I think - I'd check that. The wiring runs to the left side of the rear compartment under the seat and I think there's a connector it all runs to - maybe disconnect - check for corrosion, clean and get some dialectric grease in there. Might need a new module though - not expensive - but hopefuly the fuse saved the day.

Just spitballing - it's been 2 years since I hooked some aux lights to the brake/tail system. It's a little hazy.
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Old July 19th, 2019, 01:04 AM   #32
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Sorry your right, indicators, No.plate and headlamp are filament bulbs. Put a multimeter on the wire for the brake light bulb and see if your getting a voltage when tge brake is pressed. Might be the lamp unit has failed.
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Old July 20th, 2019, 04:57 AM   #33
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Disconnecting lambda's didn't fix it. Guess I'm tracing wires...
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Old July 20th, 2019, 07:39 PM   #34
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...brake/tail lights are all led...
+1
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Old July 24th, 2019, 11:59 PM   #35
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Any joy fixing it?
The brake light switches x 2 are on the same circuitry for fuse 4.
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Old July 25th, 2019, 01:58 AM   #36
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No joy. I pulled all the fairings and went hunting this weekend. I have a tap on the #4 that I cleaned up but for the life of me can't remember what add-on it powers. I also found a broken regulator on my driving lamp circuit board, but that won't be the cause. I'm assuming the broken circuit board is due to the beating of the roads and my tendency to loft the front wheel. I'm going to focus my search on the steering/ forward frame area.

If I cant fix this weekend, it's going to the shop. My auto store doesn't have 10A mini's in stock and I'm not buying another assorted pack. I'm half tempted to throw a 15A in there but it could be a costly action.
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Old July 25th, 2019, 05:37 PM   #37
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Originally Posted by appliance821 View Post
The front fuse panel 10amp fuse is the lights fuse (or the instrument panel - but that's ok right?).
Rear fuse box back by tail light, position #6...

Quote:
Originally Posted by appliance821 View Post
The wiring from the tail light is fairly easy to trace - -can't remember but it runs through a grommet I think...runs to the left side of the rear compartment under the seat and I think there's a connector it all runs to...
Yeh, I installed a brake flasher and used stock connectors to put it in, all of it looks good on visual inspection...brakes and turn signals work just fine...

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Originally Posted by appliance821 View Post
Might need a new module though - not expensive - but hopefuly the fuse saved the day.
Where's the module and how do you check it...I've traced the #6 fuse position, on the wiring diagram, to the ignition switch ("Direct" Pin), so there is a bit of lowest common denominator here, namely the ignition switch which also has a problem with being locked (blows 30A fuses when I do)...so now I'm looking up how to get the immobilizer to accept another key, I happen to have another ignition switch I can swap to, just need the keys to work with the immobilizer before I install it...

Last edited by BadToTheBown; July 25th, 2019 at 05:40 PM.
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Old July 26th, 2019, 07:11 AM   #38
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Trace the lambda sensor wire from the headers back and disconnect from there, both on the left hand side, one low and fwd, the other middle ish. should be pretty accessible though
The front is definitely accessible, but I don't know about the rear. Looks like it's zip-tied to the frame cross-beam under the seat, and covered by the bottom of the rear of the tank/pump outlet. Do I need to remove the tank to get to it, or is there an easier way?
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Old August 2nd, 2019, 05:44 AM   #39
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Some new shit has come to light, man:

So stripped everything off but the tank. No breaks, kinks, frays or loose ends that I can see or feel. Unplugging the lambda's had no effect, either.

So gave it the college try and fired her up on the center stand. I put it in gear and was able to run her up to above 30 mph, giving some healthy blips, and aside from the ABS/ DTC warnings, she ran fine. Those lights were expected as the front wheel speed sensors were not jiving with the rear.

Jump on, and as soon as I give just a little bit of throttle it dies, blowing the same CB.

WTF? Could this be ABS or DTC related? I had her in sport with DTC 0/ ABS 1 when it first happened.
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Old August 2nd, 2019, 11:32 AM   #40
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Something pinched by body weight, suspension movement?
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