Dry clutch conversion

Sep 2017
281
2
Lansing Mi
I just finished the conversion earlier this week. Temps have been in the 30s so I havnt ridden much but I have been out. First impression, the feel is very consistent. It isn't as on/off as I have read in some forums. I'm very happy so far. I will do some better coverage on the finishing of this project soon. I'm trying to upload a few pics but every single pic is saying it's too large even with cutting and cropping. I'll need to figure out how to resolve this so I can share the pics.
 
Sep 2017
281
2
Lansing Mi
Ok. So in the end, I had to make a male nut with a beveled area to allow the spider spring to work while still retaining the hub. The output shaft on the wet bikes is shorter than the shafts on the dry bikes so the hub needed to be machined to receive the shoulder of the nut. That tolerance I made very tight to allow the shoulder of the nut to help support the hub itsself. I'm very happy with the outcome here but it would have been far easier to modify a non-slipper clutch or even the kbike adjustable slipper clutch(it uses secondary springs in place of the spider spring. I will eventually upgrade to the adjustable. It only costs ~$120 and will drop right in to my modified hub).

There was a little concern for the output shaft that the basket gear and clutch hub rides on. Their is a oil port that exits under one of the gear bearings. The issue is that their is no flat surface for an o ring to seal that point so I was expecting there to be a little leaking. During assembly I used some 3M flange sealant at that location. Its ment for situations like this and so far so good.

Next issue, primary and basket gears. I spent the most time researching this. Most people who are selling these gears aren't using the pics of their actual parts so the hours I spent counting teeth and deciphering taper vs splined arrangements were all for nothing. Orderd from various Ebay sellers as well as Gotham. Gotham's response 'woops, we posted the wrong pic. The part number is correct so we dont really care. You can keep the gears, want a refund?' Which is good that I got my money back but was another 2 weeks wasted. They since have changed their pics. This isnt a problem if you swap the gear set along with the oil pump front the donor bike but the other oil pump spins at a completely different rate than the oem pump in our bikes. I was told that it wouldn't be an issue but I fought to keep my OEM pump and ratio. The issue is, the primary gear MUST be a taper fit(every kit you see shows a splined fit) and the oil pump gear on that primary gear MUST be 25 tooth. After ordering 5 sets of gears I finally got a Ebay seller that wanted to make my situation work so he went through his inventory and found a set that has 25tooth oil pump. It came from a DS motor. Now, if you are obsessive like me you you want to get the lightest rotating mass possible. Many gear sets will work as long as the primary is tapered and has a 25t oil pump(unless you want to swap oil pump...which can only be done on the 13-14 bikes. 15+ has oil pump machined into the engine case) but an easy rule of thumb, the 1100 monster gears will work as will the 1100 evo hyper gears. BUT!!! The hyper 1100 evo gears are lighter by over half a pound.

The other issue, oil flow through the output shaft. That needs to be stopped. Their is a pushrod that actuated the clutch that gos through this shaft along with oil flow. That oil flow was ment to lubricate the wet clutch. It dumps out the end into the center of the clutch and flings the oil out ward. It also lubricates a couple needle bearings that the trans gears ride on. There are 2 methods to do this(or so I thought). 1, buy the needle bolt from ducati Omaha that gos behind the front sprocket on the left side of the motor. That plugs the oil passage and now that shaft runs dry(from what I can determine). I didn't want to do this but I'm prepared to do it if I have too. 2, make a super fancy nut that holds the clutch hub on and seals the pushrod. Kbike and someone else uses this method but they WILL NOT sell one separately from their kit, believe me I tried many times and many different ways. Now, the 3rd way. There is a needle bearing and a tiny seal on many of the dry clutch bikes inside that shaft. Their is also a sealing/shim sleeve that the bearing and seal fit into perfectly. All of this is OEM parts available through ducati Omaha. I pushed the seal into the sleeve then the bearing into the sleeve then pressed the whole assembly into the output shaft. It is a very snug fit but its intended to be a snug fit.
While I had this all apart I decided to micro polish the gear tooth faces. That is said to make for a better/smoother delivery.

After months of sorting out gears I was finally ready for assembly. Notice in the pics, complete gear set with clutch vs complete gear set with clutch weight. The dry clutch will be ADDING 1lb to the rotating assembly(I machined down my flywheel to make up for this a little bit. I cut a little over half a pound off of the flywheel so in total I am up a little less than half of a pound).

Anyway, so far so good. I will put together a list at some point and upload it here along with part numbers and prices I paid. I'm into it for quite a bit less than $1000 including the extra parts I ordered and wrong parts I paid for.
 

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