Ducati Hypermotard 821 clutch fix - the definitive guide

Apr 2017
Some background

The clutch on the 2013 and 2014 Hypermotard/Hyperstrada is infamously bad. The design of the clutch results in a minuscule engagement zone and inconsistent clutch engagement when launching at varying RPMs. The result is a clutch that is near impossible to launch smoothly. Interestingly, some users with 2013/2014 models have not noted this problem, so there appears to be some variation within model years.

In 2015, Ducati changed the design of the clutch, adding a belleville washer to the design. This clutch was also used in the Monster 821 when it was released. The result was a much smoother, "normal" feeling clutch. See below for diagrams of the 2013 and 2015 clutch design.



Fixing the 2013/2014 clutch

The only difference between these two designs is the clutch pack. Although some other part numbers change, the parts themselves are identical. The only thing that changed is the clutch pack. This means that you can fix your 2013/2014 clutch by simply swapping in a 2015 clutch pack (part #19020312A, price was $500 CAD last time I checked).

I just completed the swap. The difference between the clutches is night and day. My clutch is now completely normal, feels a lot like the clutch in my old SV650. Fast launches, clutch wheelies, and day-to-day commuting are now effortless. I'd 100% recommend the swap, probably the best $500 you can spend on this bike.

With that said, I'll detail below how to perform the swap. I'd rate this as a 5/10 difficulty, it took me about 4 hours start to finish, working slowly and making lots of mistakes. Thanks to user fredgilb for being the first to do this swap and for helping me out through the process.

Tools/parts you'll need:
1) New 2015 clutch pack (19020312A)
2) 32mm socket
3) Various metric sockets/hex keys (nothing exotic required)
4) Torque wrenches capable of measuring up to 200 ft/lb, and down to 3 ft/lb
5) Three bond 1211 or equivalent gasket sealant
6) Rubber mallet
7) Breaker bar
8) 3mm x 0.5 pitch threaded rod. In total you need about 12 inches of the stuff. I had to call around to find it.
9) 8 nuts to fit the threaded rod.
10) Engine oil

Step 1 - Wash your bike. Try to get rid of as much grit from around the clutch cover as possible.

Step 2 - Drain your oil. If you're due for a change, this would be a good time. Otherwise, store in a clean container for re-use.

Step 3- Put your bike in 6th gear. This will help you later.

Step 4 - Disconnect your clutch cable from your clutch lever, then disconnect from the clutch cover

Step 5 - Remove the 10 bolts holding the clutch cover on. There are 3 different lengths - 6 short, 3 medium, 1 long. Location noted in photos.

Step 6 - Remove the small clutch cable retaining tab.

Step 7 - Remove the clutch cover. Start by using the rubber mallet to hit the clutch cover around its outer edge to try to break the seal. This may or may not work - I tried for 20 minutes without luck. There are small tabs located on the clutch cover (see photo). I used a small pry bar and a wood block to gently pry the cover off and break the seal. DO NOT attempt to insert anything between the two mating surfaces.

Step 8 - Wiggle that clutch cover out. There is a tab that fits behind the belt cover that you'll have to account for, and the rear brake pedal will get in the way. Wiggle it just right and it'll come out gently.

Step 9 - Now you can see your clutch. This is where you'll use the 3mm threaded rod. Insert the rod as shown in the photo, and finger tighten a nut to hold the clutch pack together. Without this in place, the spring loaded clutch would separate when you took the clutch springs out.

Step 10 - Remove the 4 bolts holding the clutch springs and pressure plate.


Step 11 - Remove the large central 32mm nut. This was tough. This is why you put the bike in 6th gear. Stand on the rear brake and use your breaker bar, and it'll loosen.

Step 12 - The whole clutch pressure plate assembly should now slide right out. Loosen the 3mm nuts on your threaded rod to release the spring tension on the clutch pack.

Step 13 - Install your new clutch pack. Note that, according to the service manual, the belleville washer goes outboard, with the small spacer inboard of that. Both fit inside the outer friction plate, which has a larger inner diameter.

Step 14 - Install is reverse of disassembly. Use the 3mm threaded rod to re-compress the clutch pack, and slide it back into the bike.

Step 15 - Tighten the 32mm nut to 180-200 ft-lbs. Again, you'll need to stand on the rear brake for this.

Step 16 - Re-install the clutch springs and pressure plate, tightening the 4 bolts to 5 Nm.

Step 17 - Remove the 3mm threaded rod.

Step 18 - Remove the rear brake pedal. It's a single large hex nut. It might be tempting to skip this step, but just do it - you'll be happy you did when it comes time to put the clutch cover back on.

Step 19 - Clean both mating surfaces (clutch cover and crank case). Remove any old gasket compound, and degrease with acetone. DO NOT use finger nail polish remover - it contains oils. DO NOT scrape either surface with anything metal. Inspect your exposed clutch cavity to ensure that no sand, dirt, tools, etc fell in.

Step 20 - Practice re-fitting the clutch cover, before you put any sealing compound on. It's a tight fit and you want to have your technique figured out before you have everything covered in silicone.

Step 21 - Apply an even bead of Three bond (or equivalent) around the entire mating surface of the clutch cover. Make sure your go all the way (i.e. make a circle) around the bolt holes.

Step 22 - Refit the clutch cover. Tighten the 10 bolts to 13.5 Nm. You should see an nice even amount of silicone squeezed out around the entire circumference of the clutch cover.

Step 23 - Re-install the clutch cable and the clutch cable retaining tab. Confirm that the clutch functions - you should be able to see clutch actuation through the oil fill hole. You may need to adjust your cable slightly at this point.

Step 24 - Re-install the rear brake lever.

Step 25 - Wait for 24 hours for the Three bond to cure. Don't rush this.

Step 26 - Refill with oil. Start the bike, confirm oil level, and check for leaks. Confirm clutch operation at low speed.

Step 27 - Go for a rip, enjoy!
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Jul 2014
So I've found a bunch of Adige clutches direct for about $100, but that's only the 2013/2014 model. They don't list anything for the 2015. If we can figure out the part number or cross reference it from the Monster 821 or a generic clutch we can make this upgrade more affordable. We shouldn't have to spend $500 for a stupid spring washer anyway...
Apr 2017
That would be ideal, for sure. I was able to get an entire used clutch assembly for $500, which helped me check for any changes in the parts between model years.

That being said, having an entirely fresh clutch pack wouldn't be the worst thing in the world. Additionally, I'm not 100% sure that the clutch pack thickness would be correct if you only swapped the outer friction plate and belleville washer/spacer.
Apr 2017
The clutch pack for the 821 Monster should drop right in, as far as I can tell. I believe the part numbers are the same.
Jul 2014
The clutch pack for the 821 Monster should drop right in, as far as I can tell. I believe the part numbers are the same.
This made me think of something... I have that barnett clutch plate and spring which is said to not fit.

Would you be able to accurately measure the inside and outside diameters of the old clutch that came out of your bike? I can measure the barnett parts and see how close or how off they really are. That would be really helpful to definitively rule out that option... and would also give us some values to reference. For all we know an SV650 or SV1000 clutch pack might drop right in, and eBay is loaded with those parts. :)