Ducati Hypermotard 821 clutch fix - the definitive guide

Sep 2016
341
2
ABQ NM
...Clutch engagement arm is definitely not installed correctly...Anyone have insight on re-installation of this mechanism?
I'm getting ready for a motorcycle trip next week so I thought I'd install the Clutch Fix as my original clutch is pretty evil and I installed an upgraded Factory Pro Hybrid Ceramic Pro Shift Kit in the hopes of some improved shifting while I had the Clutch Basket out (need this out to get at it)...

I'm having a definite problem with my Clutch (Cover) Release Lever (factory manual calls it "drive unit (lever (A) and spring)". When I fit the cover, it's feel good and feel the engagement as I put it into position it came from when I took it apart, however, once I start snugging down the cover screws it it binds up tight...

This I know:
-installed Judder Kit correctly (10 friction plates, includes the Turned one from the kit), pulled outer (friction) Drive Plate and Driven plate and put in from the kit the new Driven Plate, Judder spacer, Judder Spring and Turned Drive Plate, in that order in Configuration A shown earlier in this post...
-Clutch Pack when installed in the Basket looks like the right height and the Judders are inside the ID of the Turned Drive Plate...
-Turned Drive Plate (new one with the Judder) is indexted in its slot and all the others in theirs, inner and outer Pressure Plate arrows are aligned...
-All the Washers and Spacers on the Primary Shaft are there and in the correct order and the Nut is greased and torqued at 140 ft/lbs (correction to the factory manual)...
-I've put it together with the Pressure Plate Spring Spacers and without, no difference as pointed out in this thread...

My Clutch (Cover) Release Lever also moves up and down about 1/4"-3/8" and I've been careful about it's index when installing the cover...

I'm all ears at this point...
 
Last edited:
Mar 2013
2,336
4
Naples, IT
I'm getting ready for a motorcycle trip next week so I thought I'd install the Clutch Fix as my original clutch is pretty evil and I installed an upgraded Factory Pro Hybrid Ceramic Pro Shift Kit in the hopes of some improved shifting while I had the Clutch Basket out (need this out to get at it)...

I'm having a definite problem with my Clutch (Cover) Release Lever (factory manual calls it "drive unit (lever (A) and spring)". When I fit the cover, it's feel good and feel the engagement as I put it into position it came from when I took it apart, however, once I start snugging down the cover screws it it binds up tight...

This I know:
-installed Judder Kit correctly (10 friction plates, includes the Turned one from the kit), pulled outer (friction) Drive Plate and Driven plate and put in from the kit the new Driven Plate, Judder spacer, Judder Spring and Turned Drive Plate, in that order in Configuration A shown earlier in this post...
-Clutch Pack when installed in the Basket looks like the right height and the Judders are inside the ID of the Turned Drive Plate...
-Turned Drive Plate (new one with the Judder) is indexted in its slot and all the others in theirs, inner and outer Pressure Plate arrows are aligned...
-All the Washers and Spacers on the Primary Shaft are there and in the correct order and the Nut is greased and torqued at 140 ft/lbs (correction to the factory manual)...
-I've put it together with the Pressure Plate Spring Spacers and without, no difference as pointed out in this thread...

My Clutch (Cover) Release Lever also moves up and down about 1/4"-3/8" and I've been careful about it's index when installing the cover...

I'm all ears at this point...
All I can say is don't fire it up until your sure it's installed correctly. If you read my saga, mine fragged and caused substantial damage inside the basket.

The manual doesn't have any details or tips about aligning the actuator arm. There's definitely users on this board that have done the judder kit and didn't report problems. My guru's are Kuksol and Araitim.

Good luck. If you get too frustrated or it nukes when you start it, just go the hydraulic clutch route. Benefits justify the cost.
 
Sep 2017
282
2
Lansing Mi
The center pull pin is pressed in. It sounds like you might need to turn the release arm (the piece the cable attached too) a little when you get to the point of resistance. I would turn it backwards slightly and see if it will allow you past the troubling spot . If that doesnt work try the other way. I feel like you might just be slightly off and it's trying to push the center pin out of the bearing.
 
Sep 2016
341
2
ABQ NM
OK, problem solved, it's wasn't the cover at all, it appears to be a part on the low side of tolerance (ground diamter), I've had this cover on and off at least 8 times and the problem was been the lever either not wanting to engage the nail head (factory name is Clutch Control Pin) or the lever binding when I tried to snug up the Cover, the nail head has a light press fit into a Bearing in the Pusher Plate, it's a press fit so the bearing spins instead of the Clutch Control Pin spinning in the bearing race...

So, I measured the clutch Drive Unit (in the Clutch Cover) where it is designed to engage under the nail head up to the over mounting surface, then I measured the engine case up to the underneath of the nail head (Clutch Control Pin) and found about a 1/4" discrepancy....

Knew it could NOT be the cover, so I pulled the Push Plate Assy AGAIN and looked at the nail head (Clutch Control Pin) in the Bearing and what do you know, it looked to be down about a 1/4", so I pressed hard with my thumb and it popped back up and re-seated against the bearing and the nail head now sits higher (more proud of) the clutch assembly, took all of 5 minutes to dry fit the cover again (I'm good at it now) and it worked first try), back off, RTV (3 Bond) and back on it went first try, bolts all in the right holes and now it's curing....

I should not have been able to move this part with my thumb, it should have required a dead blow hammer or a good rubber mallet (recommend the latter on bearings like this) but here I am wondering what the hell...next clutch this gets replaced...Thanx for the quick responses and advice, hope this helps someone else...
 
Last edited:
Jan 2019
60
0
Toronto
I have a 2015 HS. Most of the time the clutch is totally normal. But occasionally it is terrible on pullaway, where it pogoes and wants to stall the engine. On a couple of occasions I have stalled. I cannot know when it will do it, it is so random.

I assume this fix will not help me as with a 2015 model I would already have the updated parts? So why would mine occasionally be so crazily grabby. I am experienced rider so it's nit rider error.
Did you ever figure out what the problem was? My clutch was fine during the spring, but once the temperatures got over 20 C, it started doing exactly what you describe, but is fairly consistent. Basically sounds like what everyone with 13/14 models are complaining about.
 
Sep 2019
8
0
Norcal
I'm following this and was hoping someone has done the retrofit. I cant find a write up on replacing just the judder kit
 
Mar 2013
2,336
4
Naples, IT
I'm following this and was hoping someone has done the retrofit. I cant find a write up on replacing just the judder kit
For the actual clutch pack, be sure to keep the same amount of clutch sets. You have to remove an OEM set to add the judder kit. I talked about this in my hydraulic clutch DIY. That and this thread are all you should need.
 
Sep 2019
8
0
Norcal
I'd like to see a poll on the judder spring orientation used and results. I'm doing mine sunday but have no idea what position I'm going to use
 
Sep 2019
8
0
Norcal
I've been trying to get this finished for a couple weeks now. Finally got the nut torqued down and installed the spring/actuator assembly. Test fitting the cover I attached the cable(which was all the way loose but still tight fit). The amount I had to push the arm to connect the cable puts it a permanent disengagement