HyperProject

Sep 2016
341
1
ABQ NM
Went to a rally (BMW) this weekend and tried a mod to my motard saddle to help my aching sit bones (ischials) as I have ischial bursitis. Rocky's guys were there and made the mods while I waited, we marked where the bones sit, then started carving, and kept carving, then sough sanded, test ride...

Better than what I was doing for ride home, several hundred miles, rode to work today and was definite improvement...I wouldn't call it a cure but it's better...
 

Attachments

Sep 2016
341
1
ABQ NM
OK, going to the Motorado Classic Motorcycle Show in Santa Fe tomorrow, Ducati is the featured brand this year, and want the old lady to ride with me. Said she didn't riding without a back rest, so ebay to the rescue with a Corbin backrest, just required a custom mount to attach it...

Anybody lowered the passenger pegs? If so, how?
 

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Sep 2016
341
1
ABQ NM
Did 3 things this time:
1) installed Factory Pro Shift Kit (1st and 2nd photo, look close at the bearing)
2) installed clutch fix (added judder)
3) replaced my rear brake pedal/peg with something higher that pivots if down
1st photo old one, 2nd photo is mod to arm and 3rd photo is new Honda 450 pedal

...and some maintenance (new front tire and oil change)...
 

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Sep 2017
281
2
Lansing Mi
I also did the factorypro.com shift kit a few months back. It takes more effort to shift but it definitely hits each gear. I still have a little 5th to 6th trouble when being lazy but other than that it's nice.

Next up is a dry clutch conversion. All the parts (aside from the clutch itsself) is on the way. I'm excited to have the Ducati I imagined in real life. This is the slipper clutch I want but might get a used OEM one till I get extra dollars
 

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Sep 2017
281
2
Lansing Mi
+1 noticeably stiffer...


This looks like something cool to do and would really cut down on the oil contamination, what the replacement cover off of? Any other advantages? Also looks like you'll be going hydraulic to actuate?
I did the hydraulic conversion months ago. First with an OEM slace cylinder then with an Oberon slave. I did a whole Wright up on it think. That drastically changed the amount of force needed to pull the clutch lever. The only way I could give a comparison was using a fish scale and it was about 10lb lighter rpull(if I remember correctly). The whole swap was under $200. That is a cheaper mod than just swapping out the lever with a stunt lever(which I did first. It was an RSC lever).

The main reasons I want to do the dry clutch are mostly emotional. My whole life when I pictured what a "Ducait" is I picture single sided swingarm, L twin motor, fancy components , steering damper and a dry clutch actuated with by a hydraulic assembly. The 821 doesnt have an oil cooler, I imagine that the friction and heat increase temps. Also as you said, oil contamination is less. Plus the sound, I really want the sound. It's not a cruiser bike not is it a race bike. It's a hooligan bike and to me that means a raw aggressive street presence .

The cover is off of a 1098 as are the gears but I'm told that any cover will work off of the testastretta platform. So far all the bolts seem to line up. I will be replacing my OEM clutch springs with stiffer Barnett springs soon. When i do that I will dry fit everything and assure the oil lines line up within the cover.

I broke my original pressure plate and had to switch to the Ducabike billet piece. I'm guessing that these stiffer springs will destroy the ducabike pressure plate. There is a very weak spot on the plate(I made a post about it) that I believe broke over time using the spring spacers with the judder spring kit. When I discover this to happen I will buy the dry clutch.

The quick shifter feels like I'm slipping a little between gears. I feel that has something to do with the additional back pressure caused by the judder spring. Now when input the stiffer springs in it will change the pressure rating and actuation of the slipper springs. It is all just getting confusing. I'll just go dry and be done with it.

Incase you just skipped to the bottom, the main reason I'm swapping is emotional. LOL
 
Jun 2017
113
0
Merced CA
I did the hydraulic conversion months ago. First with an OEM slace cylinder then with an Oberon slave. I did a whole Wright up on it think. That drastically changed the amount of force needed to pull the clutch lever. The only way I could give a comparison was using a fish scale and it was about 10lb lighter rpull(if I remember correctly). The whole swap was under $200. That is a cheaper mod than just swapping out the lever with a stunt lever(which I did first. It was an RSC lever).

The main reasons I want to do the dry clutch are mostly emotional. My whole life when I pictured what a "Ducait" is I picture single sided swingarm, L twin motor, fancy components , steering damper and a dry clutch actuated with by a hydraulic assembly. The 821 doesnt have an oil cooler, I imagine that the friction and heat increase temps. Also as you said, oil contamination is less. Plus the sound, I really want the sound. It's not a cruiser bike not is it a race bike. It's a hooligan bike and to me that means a raw aggressive street presence .

The cover is off of a 1098 as are the gears but I'm told that any cover will work off of the testastretta platform. So far all the bolts seem to line up. I will be replacing my OEM clutch springs with stiffer Barnett springs soon. When i do that I will dry fit everything and assure the oil lines line up within the cover.

I broke my original pressure plate and had to switch to the Ducabike billet piece. I'm guessing that these stiffer springs will destroy the ducabike pressure plate. There is a very weak spot on the plate(I made a post about it) that I believe broke over time using the spring spacers with the judder spring kit. When I discover this to happen I will buy the dry clutch.

The quick shifter feels like I'm slipping a little between gears. I feel that has something to do with the additional back pressure caused by the judder spring. Now when input the stiffer springs in it will change the pressure rating and actuation of the slipper springs. It is all just getting confusing. I'll just go dry and be done with it.

Incase you just skipped to the bottom, the main reason I'm swapping is emotional. LOL

That last line made me lol.

I've been considering doing the dry clutch & hydraulic lever conversion(also for emotional purposes LOL, I too have lusted after the clackity clack of the Duc dry clutch) but I don't think I would try and tackle it myself. I am mechanically inclined, been working on cars(recreationally) for almost 30 years so I do have knowledge and tools but I just don't want to screw something up. I have a shop I trust to do the work and they charge a fair price so I'm planning to bring the job up in a few weeks when I get my next service done. Does anyone have a list of all the required parts for each conversion? Will the Evotech adjustable shorty clutch lever I have now work or will I need to buy a new one?
 
Sep 2017
281
2
Lansing Mi
LOL. That is one of the big factors in to this decision, emotional reasoning.

There is no official list yet. I intend on making one. I have read and talked to 2 people who have fone the conversion. Both say that the 13-15 bikes require no modifications. The 16+ bikes have the additional oil cooler which makes the dry cover need modifications. Any of the testastretta based motor covers. Gears and clutch h are supposes to swap right on. When going thorough the microfiche on Ducati Omaha nearly every bike uses the same part numbers for all the components. The 848, 999,749, 1098. 1198, streetfighter 1098, s4r, s4rs, s2r 1000 all have the same part numbers. I think this will be another easier and inexpensive than anticipated.

As for the clutch lever, you will need to swap to a hydraulic clutch assembly. Dont buy the $600+ kit. You can get a radial brembo master for $100, the push rod for $10 and a new oberon slave cylinder for a little over $100. Some of the kits need additional parts.